Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 6 pitches, Grade IV
GPS: 42.76293, -109.22514
FA: FA: Brent Davis & Evelyn Lees, 1982. FFA: Unknown, 1990s
Page Views: 219 total · 6/month
Shared By: Joe K on Jan 26, 2023
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

From the ledge where the Northeast Face cuts right… 

P1&2 300ft 5.6 - start up on left trending ledges to gain the base of the obvious corner system capped by a roof. We simuled here, but would go in ~2 pitches if broken up.

P3 160ft 5.9 - start up the corner going around the right side of the roof. Follow the plant filled cracks up the corner. We belayed about 30ft past a small, but obvious, ledge in the corner.

P4 180ft 5.10 - continue up the corner to where it steepens a bit. We found this steeper section to be the crux. Great gear when you find it, but you have to run it out a bit due to the plants in the corner. After this steep section the main corner continues - we opted to climb the flakes on the right side instead of the corner (no gear in the corner). The flakes, or corner, lead to a large ledge below an obvious steep wide crack. Comfy belay.

P5 180ft 5.9 - Pull some tough moves right off the belay, climbing the wide crack over the bulge. After those few moves, the pitch is 5.7 - climb the continuation of the crack and trend left after you pull the lip. This leads to a right-trending ledge system which will take you all the way to a large notch below the true summit. Belay when you reach the notch.

P6 150ft 5.8 - there are many different options here, but we took the glaring steep hand/finger crack up the back side of the tower (climbers right when arriving at the notch, left side of the summit block when looking towards the summit). Climb about 60ft and then traverse the top of the tower to find the NE Face rappel route.

Location Suggest change

Approach the same as the Northeast Face. Scramble up talus & ledges on the far left side, avoiding the slabs directly below the route. Traverse back right towards the routes once you gain the main upper ledge systems. See the Bechtel guide for more details & photos.

Protection Suggest change

Doubles small to #3, one #4

Photos

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