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Joob Joob

5.10c, Sport, 275 ft (83 m), 3 pitches,  Avg: 3.7 from 14 votes
FA: Walz, Vester, & Steinwender Jan 2023
International > Asia > Thailand > S - Islands & B… > Laem Phra Nang… > Tonsai Bay > Ao Nang Tower
Warning Access Issue: Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast! DetailsDrop down

Description

Joob Joob is a fantastic moderate adventure above the sea. Pronounced with lips pursed tight as if to give a kiss, it literally translates to “kiss kiss”. 

Highlights of the climb include fun stalactite stemming, comfortable belay ledges, and an overhung hero tufa at the very top. Nearly every single piece of protection is a titanium bolt, save for only a few slung tufas (bomber provided the sling is in good shape). 

Pitch 1 is basically an upgraded and extended version of an old single pitch called, Ao Nang Ao Nang. It was cleaned up and rebolted with proper equipment to reach the awesome climbing on P2 and P3. There are still some remnant steel bolts that should be avoided. Always use the U style bolts that have red glue. 

P1
5.10a, 105ft, 12 bolts, 2 slings
Follow mostly easy terrain straight up and slightly right over rock of varying quality. Belay at a cozy ledge next to a massive black stalactite.

P2
5.10b, 60ft, 5 bolts, 1 sling
Either launch straight up from the anchor (reachy) or climb around right and step back left (easier). Then follow great stalactite stemming up the chute. Belay at another ledge near a hanging column. 

P3
5.10c, 110ft, 15 bolts, 3 slings
This is where the goods get great! Easily climb the hanging columns like a spiral staircase. Then, tackle multiple small cruxes before and after good rests on beautiful orange rock. The final overhung tufa to the anchor is the cherry on top of this stellar pitch. Once you reach the anchor, it’s best to have your partner lower you back down to the ledge and belay them from there.

Descent

Lower one another back to the P2 ledge. Then two raps put you back onto the ledge above the water. 

Bonus points for keeping your rope out of the sea by clipping a strand into the leaver carabiner on P1. 

Location

Southwest face of the tower. Pitch 1 starts directly above the ledge you exit the boat onto.

Protection

18 draws
70m rope

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Joob Joob topo (zoom in for full quality)
[Hide Photo] Joob Joob topo (zoom in for full quality)
Joob Joob. Seth Anderson Photo.
[Hide Photo] Joob Joob. Seth Anderson Photo.
Joob Joob topo in Thai (zoom in for full quality)
[Hide Photo] Joob Joob topo in Thai (zoom in for full quality)
Joob Joob P3
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Photo Klara Stienwender
[Hide Photo] Joob Joob P3 Photo Klara Stienwender
Lowering off P3 showing how steep (but easy) it is!
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Photo Klara Steinwender
[Hide Photo] Lowering off P3 showing how steep (but easy) it is! Photo Klara Steinwender
Dennie looking fresh at the P2 belay
[Hide Photo] Dennie looking fresh at the P2 belay

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jonathon Driscoll
Whitehorse, Yukon Canada
[Hide Comment] wonderful climb. We did this while two friends climbed Orange Chandaliers so we were able to share the boat ride. A quickdraw was dropped in the water sadly and lost but great climb. Feb 27, 2023
Quinn Turner
North Vancouver, BC
 
[Hide Comment] Oddly, the 2025 guidebook incorrectly lists this climb as extremely chossy with dangerous hardware. This is erroneous, Joob Joob was our best climb in 4 weeks between Tonsai, Railay & Ao Nang. It also had the best anchor hardware we saw in all of Thailand. Get on this climb!! Outstanding exposure, comfortable belay ledges, well protected & extremely novel. Rent a 2p kayak from Tonsai Bay for 450 baht (4hrs), 15 minute paddle. Low tide is heinous to haul bags up onto the ledge. Feb 17, 2025