Signals

THIS ROUTE IS CLOSED JAN 1 TO APRIL 30 EVERY YEAR. Please respect the closure. This will help enable Bighorn Sheep to thrive and will help to maintain positive access relationships with local land management. See the current documentation here (active through 2023): https://www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/fseprd962098.pdf

Just another SFTS Bob Dylan Classic out in Pontatoc Canyon..

Signals was developed over the 2021 and 2022 fall seasons. Most of the time was spent route-finding the best aspects of the wall, creating an enjoyable line just a few hundred feet to the left of Void of Form.

The FA’s spent countless hours scrubbing and prying all hazards away from the line, but it is still advised to climb with a helmet, for both Signals and Void of Form.

Currently, expect a lot of loose dirt and small rocks to fall as you climb and clean your way to the summit. 

The longest pitch is just under 30 meters. You can link P3 and 4 with a 40m rope. You can even link P5 (with a 50m?) if you don’t mind a little rope drag through a roof crux. 

After the crux pitch, it is difficult to escape the route, however, there are several ways to escape with double 70m if you are creative. Try to avoid becoming an inconvenience to parties climbing the route below, and be aware of what you are knocking loose on your way down.

If you want to cruise to the top, scramble down the P5 ledge at the base of the wall to join Void of Form at the P6 grassy ledge.

If you have any questions about the route, pls don’t @ me.

Actually, can be reached thru BeReal @tradzaddy00.

P1 5.10c Begin by stemming through two bolts to a horizontal crack. Move left into the steep, vertical crux. When the bolts run out, head up the weakness out right, and finish with an airy traverse into a semi-hanging belay. Two-bolt anchor.

P2 5.9 Start right of the anchor and mantle onto a sloping ledge. Move around the corner to the right on slabby terrain and climb a short dihedral, pulling over a roof that takes you to a nice ledge with a two-bolt anchor. 

Unrope, climb over the anchor and follow the trail marked with cairns to the base of P3. Don’t forget to take epic pics of climbers on Void of Form. Use AirDrop, idk.

P3 5.10a The Apron. Trend right on low-angle, intermittent cracks that take you to an open book. Stem out and make a few long moves, clip the bolt and pull over the bulge. Come to rest at a semi-hanging belay. Two-bolt anchor.

P4 5.8 The Tower. Climb the right side of the tower of broken blocks. Good protection the whole way. Just a delightful, cruiser pitch. Two-bolt anchor. 

P5 5.10c/d Straight above the anchor, clip a single bolt and pull the roof crux. Continue up the crack until you reach another overhang. Exit left to a two-bolt anchor. 

Scramble up a short, rocky gully and get situated onto the ledge. You can either unrope, or body/gear belay your partner up.

BE CAREFUL NOT TO KNOCK OFF LOOSE ROCK ONTO THE LOWER PITCHES.

P6 5.8 Begin in the left corner of the ledge and head almost straight up the face, following a broken crack system. When you reach a thin horizontal crack, take a few steps out to the left to reach the semi-hanging belay. Two-bolt anchor.

P7 5.10a The Traverse. Make your way over by heading down and left on delicate moves until you reach a corner. Turn the corner, staying low at the first bolt, and head back up to the final bolted section. Pull the overhanging moves and climb up to a two-bolt anchor.

There is adequate protection here to keep the follower(s) safe. Make sure to protect every chance you get or you may have an unpleasant experience. 

You can also reverse this pitch if you intend to escape the route, but it does increase the grade of the pitch slightly. 

P8 5.11a The Crux. Climb low angle terrain up to the right side of a steep headwall. Commit to a four-bolt section of steep moves over a bulge and onto a small ledge. Continue up a roof and ledge system, clipping the last two bolts until you reach the two-bolt anchor. 

Unrope and climb over the anchor. Follow the trail marked with cairns to the base of P9. 

P9 5.9 The Unearthed Pitch. Clip the bolt and pull the first roof to gain a ledge. Climb a right-leaning crack leading to another roof protected by a bolt and small gear. Continue up and left, on positive holds to the ledge. Belay from a single bolt and gear in a crack. 

Move left along the ledge 30 feet. You can belay P10 from a single bolt here.

P10 5.10a/b Tricky and steep. Head straight over the bolt, protecting on mostly small gear. Make a move right on big holds and continue straight up to reach a double-crack that leads to the summit and the final two-bolt belay.

After reaching the top of the scree/game trail leading to the base of Void of Form, head left on the trail staying close to the wall. Takes a 2-minute hike to reach the start of Signals.

Approach via Pontatoc Canyon trail. 0.2 miles after crossing the main drainage, which is followed by a large flat patio-like area to the right, exit the main trail at two cairns forming an entrance to a sub-trail on the right (32º20'41.95" N, 110º53'31.02" W). Follow this trail until it turns to slabs, then cross the drainage at cairns. Follow more cairns up the boulder field, aiming for the toe of the buttress. At the top of the boulders, a short slab scramble leads to the final section, becoming a game trail that leads to the base of the route. (Void of Form description)

Combination of 12 alpines/quickdraws, set of stoppers, doubles 0.1-0.5, singles 0.75-2

#0 and #3 could be useful