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One For the Dirty Girls

5.10b, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.3 from 24 votes
FA: Jen Kramer (May 2011)
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (xx) The Zoo > Platform
Warning Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

Monkey some jugs to a spooky yet solid softball sized knob undercling at the first clip. This hold has been pulled hundreds if not thousands of times, but who knows, maybe you will be the one to dislodge it.

Muscling a tough to decipher stiff crux sequence at the second bolt frustrates many. If the route feels way too hard for .10b you probably went the wrong way or don't see the key hold. 

Clip the 3rd bolt with a runner or a doubled up draw to eliminate drag. 

The variety,  exposure, and length coalesce to one of the best .10’s at  the Zoo.  

Location

Second route to the right of the obvious Relevant to My Interests dihedrial. Look for the baseball sized knob pointing down for the first clip.

Protection

bolts

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One For the Dirty Girls is what the climber is on
[Hide Photo] One For the Dirty Girls is what the climber is on

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] This route is a must do if you're in the Zoo. Two cruxes, one getting above the second bolt (harder) and one at the next bulge (easier). Super fun with some interesting features. Oct 30, 2023