Type: Sport, 85 ft (26 m), Grade VI
GPS: 44.50753, -109.1764
FA: Equipped JW
Page Views: 249 total · 6/month
Shared By: Justin Willis on Dec 20, 2022
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

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Description Suggest change

This is an open project on the opposite side of the chockstone as Talon. Climb the first several bolts of Talon on perma-draws. Once below the chock, move up and left, copping an uncomfortable rest between the dolomite chockstone and the granite wall. Quest with incredibly difficult, all natural (no manufactured holds) moves up the steep, shaded side of the chockstone. I have done each move in isolation except for one, but stacking them together seems to be outside of my realm. Several V10 moves, with some significantly harder moves to start. Certainly harder than .14a, I would not be surprised if this climb comes in at 5.14+ or maybe harder. It is very high quality and a true gem for the Cody area. A couple of the bolts at the start of the chockstone exist for projecting, so on the send burn, I'd imagine that a person would only clip one before launching as the fall is into nothing but air. 

Full disclosure: I have never bolted a route of this difficulty. If someone gets serious about this and finds the need to move a bolt, you've got my blessing. However, please, DO NOT CHIP: it will go. 

Location Suggest change

Climb Talon to the chockstone, but instead of climbing the front of the chock, climb the backside. 

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