Golden Pillar

This route begins at the lowest toe of granite coming down the central golden pillar of the SE face of Whorl Mountain. It was the most aesthetic and natural line we saw when camping below at one of the tarns in Spiller Canyon. The FA of this route encountered a good deal of grainy, loose flakes and we pondered calling the route 'Mr Crumbles' at first. 

Lest this take any wind out of your sails, the face climbing up the central face looks like it will be solid after some traffic (if it gets any). It's just a bit grainier than most obscure routes. Come prepared for adventure but great position on a beautiful peak. 1.5 stars for rock, 3 stars for position.

Although I have 7 pitches listed below, we climbed the first two unroped (not hard) and did the rest in 4 pitches. This list is more logical with hindsight.

P1-2. Scramble up the rib from its toe until you approach the base of the large 200' eponymous 'golden' block. We soloed this but you may want to rope up at a point or two. 4th-5th class.

P3. We headed up the left side of the golden pillar in a corner. Belay at a small ledge most of the way up. We would have preferred the face of the 5.6, 60 m.

P4. Continue up the corner to the top of the golden pillar with a comfy and well-positioned belay on a block. The rock on the very top of the golden pillar could be used as actual kitty litter in a pinch. 5.7, 30 m.

P5. Traverse right from the belay and head up the large crack, with pro in the back. Head up until you encounter a band of rock that ends the crack. Belay here in the crack (though on the FA we kept going to a less convenient belay). 5.7, 30 m

P6. Traverse left and head up past the band into face climbing. Head straight up on good but very grainy face climbing or, lacking boldness, traverse back right to some cracks. Climb until you hit the top of another pillar with a less comfy belay than the previous one. 5.7, 25 m

P7. Head up the right of the final face in a nice and clean (for once) corner crack. At a logical place step back left onto the face and wander across nice face and arete climbing with sparse pro until you hop over this final block of the pillar onto a sandy slope. 5.7, 25 m

From here wander carefully through 5th class scrambling to the summit (middle summit) of Whorl Mountain. Descend via the SE face 3rd class route.

P6-7 can be combined with good rope management.

We identified three major pillars on the SE Face of Whorl, which, from climbers L to R, we called the Orange Pillar, White Pillar, and Golden Pillar. This is the rightmost pillar, arguably the most obvious and direct line up the center of the SE face. It is to climber's R of the 3rd class ascent gully.