The Otter Groove
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British PG13
Type: | Trad, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Tom Caldwell and Kathryn Schalkoff |
Page Views: | 334 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | Tom Caldwell on Nov 30, 2022 |
Admins: | Tom Caldwell, Steve Lineberry |
Description
This is an old Scoff/Lambert route that was never finished. Two bolts may or may not still be on the route in the future. The bold original route made a wild traverse to get into the regularly wet water groove to the left. Making for extremely spicy 5.10X terrain. At the FA request, the route was made safer and completed to the top. It is still spicy in a few spots, but not death defying.
Begin just left of Crystal Anniversary at some thin edges and crystals. Clip the first bolt and move into the bowl. Find a small finger sized piece of gear in a left facing flake. Reach right to some good edges. Clip a bolt at a nice stance, then move up through sustained thin knobs and slab past another bolt. Get to a decent stance for another bolt, then trend left to the edge of the water groove. Layback the groove past a couple more bolts to the P1 anchor or link into P2.
Move back left to the edge of the water groove past a few more bolts and some more finger sized gear. When the bolts on the right end, climb a little higher and make a move left laybacking the cool flake feature to cross over the groove. Mantle up on a big horn to get to another bolt. Move up the slab on the left side of the groove past another bolt to the anchor.
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