Type: Trad, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches
FA: Tom Caldwell and Kathryn Schalkoff
Page Views: 334 total · 12/month
Shared By: Tom Caldwell on Nov 30, 2022
Admins: Tom Caldwell, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is an old Scoff/Lambert route that was never finished. Two bolts may or may not still be on the route in the future. The bold original route made a wild traverse to get into the regularly wet water groove to the left. Making for extremely spicy 5.10X terrain. At the FA request, the route was made safer and completed to the top. It is still spicy in a few spots, but not death defying.

Begin just left of Crystal Anniversary at some thin edges and crystals. Clip the first bolt and move into the bowl. Find a small finger sized piece of gear in a left facing flake. Reach right to some good edges. Clip a bolt at a nice stance, then move up through sustained thin knobs and slab past another bolt. Get to a decent stance for another bolt, then trend left to the edge of the water groove. Layback the groove past a couple more bolts to the P1 anchor or link into P2.

Move back left to the edge of the water groove past a few more bolts and some more finger sized gear. When the bolts on the right end, climb a little higher and make a move left laybacking the cool flake feature to cross over the groove. Mantle up on a big horn to get to another bolt. Move up the slab on the left side of the groove past another bolt to the anchor.

Location Suggest change

Just left of Crystal Anniversary, but right of the big and often wet water grooves. First low bolt is obvious from the ground.

Protection Suggest change

Quickdraws for bolts, #2 metolius, .3, and .4 C4s. A single 60m rope will get you down. Watch the rope ends rapping from P2 to P1, its right at 95'.

Photos

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