Doing your rounds on the "big" routes in the creek? This is a worthy line to add to the list. If you are looking for hand jams, you wont find them here.
The Big Cooter is a beautiful off width corner crack that starts as stacks, stays wide the whole time, and gets steeper as you go. The climb can be split up into 3 distinct sections each with rests in between. Each section is around 30'
Section 1: More difficult than it appears as it changes sizes a few times making it difficult to get into the groove (crux 1). For me it starts as calf locks into knees into calves again.
Section 2: Perfect 5s crack that has an obvious end.
Section 3: Slightly overhanging 6s through a bulge (crux 2). Easier for those that can chicken wing and heel toe this size.
The route is pretty clean for the first 2/3s but is quite dusty up top. It will clean up with more ascents. I realized when I got to the crag that I had forgotten the brush down in the lot. I will go back and brush it one of these days.
On the left side of Gash Wall on the same shelf as XXX. From the top of the nice approach trail head climbers left passing the obvious Bud's Route and Jutting Flake. Continue left until you find Flicking the Bean and Sababa. Once at the base of Flicking the Bean, scramble up to your right onto the shelf. The corner should be very obvious if you brought the gear for it.
Disclaimer, this rack includes lots of bumping. If you aren't comfortable with bumping your cams, bring more.
My send rack was Old 5, Old 4.5, 5, 5, 6, 7, 6. The length is an estimate, a 60m rope will probably be fine, knot your ends just in case. 2 bolt anchor up top on the left wall with links, it is visible from the ground.
If you don't have the old cams, I think 4x new 5s would work. In addition having an extra 6 and no 7 would have been better. I don't have that many 6s. The 7 only works in 1 specific spot and needs to be placed very carefully to not get it stuck, it cannot be bumped.
Monticello, UT
Monticello, UT