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The Big Cooter

5.11, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3 from 3 votes
FA: CN Nov '22
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Gash
Warning Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

Doing your rounds on the "big" routes in the creek? This is a worthy line to add to the list. If you are looking for hand jams, you wont find them here.

The Big Cooter is a beautiful off width corner crack that starts as stacks, stays wide the whole time, and gets steeper as you go. The climb can be split up into 3 distinct sections each with rests in between. Each section is around 30'

Section 1: More difficult than it appears as it changes sizes a few times making it difficult to get into the groove (crux 1). For me it starts as calf locks into knees into calves again. 

Section 2: Perfect 5s crack that has an obvious end.

Section 3: Slightly overhanging 6s through a bulge (crux 2). Easier for those that can chicken wing and heel toe this size.

The route is pretty clean for the first 2/3s but is quite dusty up top. It will clean up with more ascents. I realized when I got to the crag that I had forgotten the brush down in the lot. I will go back and brush it one of these days.

Location

On the left side of Gash Wall on the same shelf as XXX. From the top of the nice approach trail head climbers left passing the obvious Bud's Route and Jutting Flake. Continue left until you find Flicking the Bean and Sababa. Once at the base of Flicking the Bean, scramble up to your right onto the shelf. The corner should be very obvious if you brought the gear for it.

Protection

Disclaimer, this rack includes lots of bumping. If you aren't comfortable with bumping your cams, bring more.

My send rack was Old 5, Old 4.5, 5, 5, 6, 7, 6. The length is an estimate, a 60m rope will probably be fine, knot your ends just in case. 2 bolt anchor up top on the left wall with links, it is visible from the ground.

If you don't have the old cams, I think 4x new 5s would work. In addition having an extra 6 and no 7 would have been better. I don't have that many 6s. The 7 only works in 1 specific spot and needs to be placed very carefully to not get it stuck, it cannot be bumped.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

On the FFA
[Hide Photo] On the FFA
The send rack and some post climb dust
[Hide Photo] The send rack and some post climb dust

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Cory N
Monticello, UT
  5.11
[Hide Comment] 3 star rating based on the dust factor at the top, otherwise this is a classic off width line! I am not an OW expert by any stretch, I am curious what some more seasoned OW climbers think about the grade. Nov 29, 2022
Cory N
Monticello, UT
  5.11
[Hide Comment] Video I made with some footage we took during the FA. It turns out that OW climbing isn't that interesting to watch. youtu.be/m3IUDfH6JXI Apr 15, 2023