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Routes in The Gash
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[Redacted] T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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AKA Inset Pillar T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Anal Sex T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Big Cooter, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bud's Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Chim 101 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Darwin Awards T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Deep Throat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dusty Pussy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flicking the Bean T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Gash, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Hot Dogs T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jutting Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nice n' Tight T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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R.F. Burnout T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Sababa T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Trouser Snake S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c C0 |
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Unknown Chossy Calcite Corner T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown Sandy Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unknown Shady Side T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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XXX T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | CN Nov '22 |
| Page Views: | 552 total · 33/month |
| Shared By: | Cory N on Nov 29, 2022 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Doing your rounds on the "big" routes in the creek? This is a worthy line to add to the list. If you are looking for hand jams, you wont find them here.
The Big Cooter is a beautiful off width corner crack that starts as stacks, stays wide the whole time, and gets steeper as you go. The climb can be split up into 3 distinct sections each with rests in between. Each section is around 30'
Section 1: More difficult than it appears as it changes sizes a few times making it difficult to get into the groove (crux 1). For me it starts as calf locks into knees into calves again.
Section 2: Perfect 5s crack that has an obvious end.
Section 3: Slightly overhanging 6s through a bulge (crux 2). Easier for those that can chicken wing and heel toe this size.
The route is pretty clean for the first 2/3s but is quite dusty up top. It will clean up with more ascents. I realized when I got to the crag that I had forgotten the brush down in the lot. I will go back and brush it one of these days.
Location
On the left side of Gash Wall on the same shelf as XXX. From the top of the nice approach trail head climbers left passing the obvious Bud's Route and Jutting Flake. Continue left until you find Flicking the Bean and Sababa. Once at the base of Flicking the Bean, scramble up to your right onto the shelf. The corner should be very obvious if you brought the gear for it.
Protection
Disclaimer, this rack includes lots of bumping. If you aren't comfortable with bumping your cams, bring more.
My send rack was Old 5, Old 4.5, 5, 5, 6, 7, 6. The length is an estimate, a 60m rope will probably be fine, knot your ends just in case. 2 bolt anchor up top on the left wall with links, it is visible from the ground.
If you don't have the old cams, I think 4x new 5s would work. In addition having an extra 6 and no 7 would have been better. I don't have that many 6s. The 7 only works in 1 specific spot and needs to be placed very carefully to not get it stuck, it cannot be bumped.
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