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Righter Side

5.8 PG13, Trad, 340 ft (103 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: Ross Swanson & Jessica Pierce
Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Devil's Gulch &… > Cow Creek Canyo… > Pulpit Rock Massif > Pulpit Rock
Warning Access Issue: DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Parking DetailsDrop down

Description

P1. Starting below the vertical crack, ascend the face to the first horizontal and the vertical crack, follow the crack on cool chickenheads until below the overhang, step right maybe 4 feet to another crack, and follow this up until you can step back left and through the gap above the overhang. Continue on the ledge then up the face to a right-facing dihedral. There is an excellent small nut or RP placement around the right corner that protects the spicy moves to gain the belay ledge. Go to the far left end of the ledge to belay using a nice crack that takes medium-sized nuts, and a #4 Camalot just fits below this crack, 35 meters.

P2. Go up the slabby face, place a large nut in a shallow opening, then run it out on easier slab Class 4 rock to the base of the chimney to join the route Right Side. I would not place any gear until in the chimney to avoid rope drag, otherwise you will need to break this pitch into two. Stem the outside of the chimney using a really cool crack on the left, and continue to top second summit from the right, 68 meters.

To descend, scramble down a large gap to the west, find the sling around a cone-shaped rock, and rap down 50 feet. Walk off to the right back to your packs.

Location

On the far right side of Pulpit Rock about 20 feet left of the arete, you will see several horizontal cracks split by a vertical, right-leaning crack 30 feet up that leads to a short overhang.

Protection

A standard rack to a #4 Camalot.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

35m of pitch 1.
[Hide Photo] 35m of pitch 1.
Stemming the chimney was a lot of fun.
[Hide Photo] Stemming the chimney was a lot of fun.
Waving from the belay at top of P1.
[Hide Photo] Waving from the belay at top of P1.