Dance of the Cedar

This unique route has 3 varied pitches all rather sustained in the 5.10 range with short, well protected 5.11 cruxes.

P1: Follow bolts and optional supplemental gear to a bolted anchor with rappel rings. One can start right of the large cedar to the first bolt, or scramble behind the tree on its left to the first bolt. Climb the line right of the first 4 bolts leading to an right, undercling traverse up to a jug, then a left undercling traverse to “the shark‘s tooth” hanging at the lowest point of the roof (Spicy but protected). Clip the bolt above the tooth and continue traversing left until you can reach up and grab ”the mini tooth”. Enter the thin face crux to the anchors. (6 bolts and supplemental finger sized piece or two). 5.11a/b

Fun, well protected and a bit heady due to the zig-zag nature surmounting the roof.

A more difficult variation climbs left after bolt 2 and uses very thin gear to climb left of bolts 3 & 4 to an awkward and more difficult series of moves to the 5th bolt above the shark tooth. Not recommended.

P2: “The levitation traverse”

Follow the 6 bolts on a wild and improbable series of delicate slab traverse moves. Thin and interesting climbing following bolts leads to a foot-wide vertical dyke and the crux. A thin, tricky, but well-protected few moves lead to a decent jug and then the anchor ledge. Exciting! (6 bolts and an optional small finger sized piece or two) 5.11a/b

P3: 

climb the obvious left-facing corner to a mini overlap. Climb some easier flakes to a ledge. Step right and face climb past two bolts to a small roof/overlap. Pull through following crack to a 3rd small roof/overlap. This leads to a series of small cracks and flakes and the anchors. (2 bolts, and cracks for pro). 5.10b

rappel lengths:

p3-p2: 32m

P2 - rap anchors on small ledge below: 25m

Rap anchors-ground 32ish meters (ground is steep across the wall)

All bolts are 3/8 stainless and where hand-drilled. Scouting, cleaning, bolting, and climbing took a lot of logistics and a total of 17 days of work. Big thanks to all those who helped (Kyle Sears, Alan Semrau, Nathan Page, & Nick Woehlbrandt).

A scrub brush is waiting for you at the base. Take it with you and do your part in the battle against the moss and lichen! ☺️

Start at the largest Cedar tree on the hillside between Stegosaurus Butte-y and Deep Roots. From the base of Stegosaurus Butte-y, follow the rough trail behind (downhill side) the boulder and follow some flagging traversing the hillside. Turn up hill (right) and to the base of the large Cedar. There is a staging area on a flat boulder near the base of the tree and route.