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Routes in Not Tierdrop Canyon
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Penthouse Pinnacle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2+ |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 38.62863, -109.60301 |
| FA: | Mike Baker |
| Page Views: | 362 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Kiessel on Nov 17, 2022 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Closures and Restrictions
Details
Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Pitch 1:
Start by climbing the chossy band of rock below the big right facing corner that makes up pitch 2. (I used a stick clip to place a cam off the ground and avoid some choss. Maybe this was nailed originally?). Find the line of least resistance that puts you in a small left facing corner 30’ up. Follow this little corner up onto a big ledge 60’ up. Gear belay with #1-3 cams. 5.8 C2+, 60’.
Pitch 2:
Climb the obvious right facing corner above. I avoided a few nailing placements by stick clipping a drilled pin. Also, free climbing out of the aiders seemed mandatory a few times. On top of the corner you round over onto a ledge. Continue up the slab climbing huecos past two drilled pins. Pass a rappel station out to your right and continue up into the corner and a gear belay on the big ledge above. 5.9 C2, 140’. (I linked pitches 1 & 2 but was solo and thus had no rope drag.)
Pitch 3:
I started up the #6 crack left of the corner but there seemed to be a few options. Continue up to the notch passing 2-3 drilled pins. Belay at a drilled pin anchor. 5.9 C2, 100’.
Pitch 4:
Climb the #3 to #4 crack to the right up to a ledge. From the ledge follow drilled pins up and right to the summit. 5.9 C1, 100’.
Descent:
Rappel from summit to notch, then to the pin anchor you passed on the slab on pitch 2. Then 200’ to the ground.
Note:
I’m pretty sure but not 100% on the name and FA party. I was told it was originally climbed at 5.9 A2+. If you have more info on this feature let me know.
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