Crystal Bonsai

2½ days were spent completing, at the time, one of the Sierra’s only two Grade VI back-country routes. Crystal Bonsai, on Bubbs Creek Wall. (The Kroger route on Tehipite Dome is the other). Follow an obvious line of cracks, arches and comers on the longest section of the wall (2300) feet), just left of the center. This line curiously follows a bizarre white crystal band from base to top. The route went 90% free with less than 200 feet of aid and entirely clean. Bathooks were used to pass a blank section on the fourth pitch and a total of 15 bolts on the 16 pitches. 

Start at a big pine 100 yards up and right of a huge, white, left-facing dihedral which marks the beginning of the crystal band. Diagonal up and left, intersecting an obvious ramp, to the “Crystal Palace” (ledge) with its “Dungeon” at the top of the huge white dihedral (3rd pitch). Follow the “Crystal Corner” and arch above up and left to bathooking which leads past four bolts to a small stance (2 bolts). From here we climbed up and slightly right to join the main crack-and-corner system, which followed for five more pitches, ending at “Zero Point Ledge,” just above the obvious huge “Seagull Roof.” Two more pitches of cracks lead up and slightly left to a good ledge. Above this, climb up and right for 100 feet to the arching right-facing dihedral which is visible from the ground. Here, instead of following the corner system up and right, face-climb left for 20 feet to a large right-facing flake and follow this and the thin crack above for a full pitch to “Dead Tree Ledge.” Above, face-climb up and left to gain entry into a huge right-facing comer one pitch below the top. Here, instead of climbing the perfectly blank comer above, face-climb left over the comer to easy knobs which lead to the top. Descent is via Charlotte Creek to the west (toward Charlotte Dome). (VI, 5.11, A3.)

Bubbs Creek Wall