This route is situated in the center of the main south face, and starts on the left of two ramps that cross and form a distinct “X” a few hundred feet from the base. Two free pitches end at the right side of a heart-shaped ledge. Evidence of a previous attempt by Dick Long and company. A pendulum right off the ancient piton leads to two pitches of mostly difficult aid to a stance below a sloping bivy. Tension traverse left off a copperhead, then aid to a small stance beneath an overhanging headwall. More hard aid and bathooking led up right of an ugly chimney, and another long pitch leads to a second bivy, also in a sloping area. Above, cleaner but wide cracks follow for two pitches. Free climb a large ramp up and left to a point just below the top. A few more tricky moves reaches the top.

Angel Wings

Trad Big Wall Rack, Beaks, Heads, Bathooks, to 5" & 6" Cams