Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 165 ft (50 m)
GPS: 45.42521, -110.95336
FA: Whit Magro, Pat Wolfe, Jasper Buchbauer. Dec 11th 2004
Page Views: 412 total · 10/month
Shared By: Colton H on Nov 2, 2022
Admins: GRK, Zach Wahrer

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A great variation to the crux pitch of Upper Avalanche Gulch if the dagger isn't formed enough to pull on. The ice can be very thin (1/4") above the M6 crux and should be taken seriously as a fall would be pretty nasty.

We belayed in the alcove underneath the dagger and that worked OK. Belaying in the alcove allows you to climb the gully above without an intermediate belay after gaining the thin ice.

Another option is to rope up at the base of a narrow ice hose and belay your second after you climb through the crux. This way you have more rope out and pieces in.

Climb the arete just to the climbers right of the dagger. Start basically behind and underneath in the back of the alcove working up and right until you're established on the near vertical, usually very thin ice. 

Location Suggest change

Approach as for Avalanche Gulch. Personally prefer Dribbles or Silken Slot to access. 

Descent as for Avalanche Gulch.

Protection Suggest change

Fixed angle as of Dec 2020, spectre, small cams (C3s), stubbys.

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