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Psychochicken

5.11b R, Trad, 75 ft (23 m),  Avg: 2.2 from 5 votes
FA: Scott Curran 2012
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > (PMRP) Pendergr… > Coal Bank Hollow > Solar Collector

Description

Boulder into the starting seam just right of chickenboy, find small gear where you can, then commit to some fun 11- face climbing on slightly crumbly rock, but overall good holds.  Reconnect with the seam below the hueco with better gear from there on.

Location

Right of chicken boy.

Protection

Doubles in .1 - 1 + nuts (offsets useful)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Scott Curran
Lexington, KY
 
[Hide Comment] Always considered adding a bolt or two to this; maybe some day if motivation ever occurs. I remember I got a gear nest with a good .5 at the first hueco and then run to the next hueco where another good .5 awaits. Thankfully the easier part is in this run. Probably only a handful of ascents on lead. Nov 2, 2022
Dustin Stephens
[Hide Comment] Maybe just two actually haha Nov 2, 2022
Will Sweeney
Zoe, KY
 
[Hide Comment] Repeated this last year. Do on a crowded day to optimize curious/concerned looks. It’s a good route, the run out is on very easy climbing and the gear before and after is quite good Apr 27, 2023