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I Got a Rock

5.5 V0, Trad, Boulder, 45 ft (14 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
FA: unknown
Wisconsin > Central > Necedah (Petenw… > 02. Y-Crack Wall

Description

A handful of delicate slab moves give way to a striking, well-protected crack with bountiful holds everywhere. Top out on the spire for full value. A short, exposed traverse to the rappel anchors finishes off the route. 

(see "Notes" for more details on protection, anchors, etc)

Location

Next to the 4th class access to the top of Y-Crack Wall, there is an obvious crack that approaches the top of a small spire. Go past it to the river-facing slab around the corner. The start of the route is on the cleaned-out, right side of this slab. 

Protection

Gear

Notes

  • Anchors: There is no bolted anchor for this line. An anchor can be built on the back-side of the spire either by down-climbing the backside to reach a bomber crack with lots of placements or by slinging the entire spire with a 15' cordelette + a couple creative placements. One could also exit right before topping out on the spire and build an excellent anchor there. 
  • Descent: Descend either by traversing (stay roped) an exposed 3rd class section over to the anchors near Whiskey A Go Go and rapping or by downclimbing the 4th/easy 5th class access trail. I would recommend the rappel as the safer option; you can sling a tree or two on the way to make it a bit safer for everyone involved.
  • Rock Quality: The rock quality is very good inside the crack and decent on the top-out. The top out has plenty solid & not-so-solid holds. Pay attention and it should not be a problem. 

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Start of the route
[Hide Photo] Start of the route
Celebrating a fun climb! The start of the route is to the left, out of frame.
[Hide Photo] Celebrating a fun climb! The start of the route is to the left, out of frame.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Phil K
Montello, WI
[Hide Comment] Climbed this in the 80’s practicing for leads on Devils Tower. We climbed exactly where your rope is. Also climbed and scrambled more to the right to set top ropes on the classics like Y-crack. Good job on your route. Jul 8, 2023
Raj Topiwala
  5.5 V0
[Hide Comment] Hi Phil. Thanks for the comment! I figured someone had to have climbed the crack and wanted to clean out a fun start to make it a worthwhile climb in its own right. Jul 8, 2023