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I Got a Rock
5.5 V0,
Trad, Boulder, 45 ft (14 m),
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
FA: unknown
Wisconsin
> Central
> Necedah (Petenw…
> 02. Y-Crack Wall
Description
A handful of delicate slab moves give way to a striking, well-protected crack with bountiful holds everywhere. Top out on the spire for full value. A short, exposed traverse to the rappel anchors finishes off the route.
(see "Notes" for more details on protection, anchors, etc)
Location
Next to the 4th class access to the top of Y-Crack Wall, there is an obvious crack that approaches the top of a small spire. Go past it to the river-facing slab around the corner. The start of the route is on the cleaned-out, right side of this slab.
Protection
Gear
Notes
- Anchors: There is no bolted anchor for this line. An anchor can be built on the back-side of the spire either by down-climbing the backside to reach a bomber crack with lots of placements or by slinging the entire spire with a 15' cordelette + a couple creative placements. One could also exit right before topping out on the spire and build an excellent anchor there.
- Descent: Descend either by traversing (stay roped) an exposed 3rd class section over to the anchors near Whiskey A Go Go and rapping or by downclimbing the 4th/easy 5th class access trail. I would recommend the rappel as the safer option; you can sling a tree or two on the way to make it a bit safer for everyone involved.
- Rock Quality: The rock quality is very good inside the crack and decent on the top-out. The top out has plenty solid & not-so-solid holds. Pay attention and it should not be a problem.
[Hide Photo] Start of the route
[Hide Photo] Celebrating a fun climb! The start of the route is to the left, out of frame.
Montello, WI