Thugs
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
| Type: | Sport, 115 ft (35 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 49.43663, -119.5673 |
| FA: | Todd Guy, 1995 |
| Page Views: | 212 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Rhys Beaudry on Oct 28, 2022 |
| Admins: | Sean Godwin, John Evan, Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Description
Approach by "Fearful in Battle" (trad, 11b) or "By Stealth" (sport, 11a. Back clean bolts 1,2, long draw 2,3, skip 5). From the chain anchor, choose the bolt line that arcs left, straightens out, and then joins a plum anchor.
Easy climbing at first leads you to thin, tenuous climbing. Several bolt to bolt sequences are in the 11+ to 12b range, but it is slab so you can sort of rest anywhere. The crux is tightly bolted and involves a non-existent left foot and two right hand Gaston's, good luck!
For full value, link in to "Disembowelled" (12a, 7 bolts, 20 m) - the bolt line exiting the 2nd anchor.
The top anchor is the old fat Metolius hangers with a pair of biners. Because of the way the biners sit, your rope gets twisted pretty fiercely. A quick-link between the hanger and the biner would fix this, if you have the means!
Location
Locate the low roof (the path goes directly under this roof) on The Fortress. Follow this to the end. "By Stealth" goes up the first panel of rock just right of the roof, and arcs left under the prominent roof at ~12 m that sweeps into a right facing corner. This bolt line, or the faint crack ~3 m to the left are your approach options. Belay in the bushes just left of the trees.



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