Le Maillon Manquant

An excellent line worthy of doing if you want to avoid crowds on the nearby classic. The route goes at 7b but can be pulled through at 6a/6b. 

The first pitch starts in a corner with a slanting ledge containing a bolted anchor. Follow this general line for the next 3 pitches, then on the large ledge move slightly right to the bolted belay. 

The next couple pitches feel wandery and route finding can be tricky, but don't be alarmed there are many ways up. Pitch 6 is a fun left facing corner into several bolted slab moves at 6a+. Now things start to get a lil steeper into the 6b+ pitch. Continue up several fun 6a crack pitches.

The crux, pitch 11, 7b starts up the right facing corner just on the other side of the belay and up into a large chimney-like crack then move right onto the face containing the bolt. A few bouldery moves leads you into a crack out right & up into below the roof. From here make sure you climb out right under the roof through a couple bolts and then out and around the roof, the topo felt a little unclear on that part. Pitch 12 felt tricky at this point even at 6a+, maybe the exhaustion and elevation hits at this point.. Pitch 13 is a long and beautiful last pitch. When it gets wide, move onto the right most wide crack, don't worry about wide gear it's not too difficult and eventually there will be a bolt on that face. Eventually move back into the other face left and summit! Double rope rappels back down either this route or on the other side. 

Located on Gendarme Rouge of the Peigne. We used crampons to get to the base by going up from the right. The route is 5 meters right of the Contamine route. Look for a bolted anchor on a slanting ledge. Approx 1hr approach from Plan de l'Aiguille station.

Standard double rack