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Circle Jerk

V7, Boulder, 20 ft (6 m),  Avg: 3.8 from 5 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Durango > Sailing Hawks > Petrified Area > Petrified Boulder

Description

Sit start to the right of Three Finger Pocket using crimps or the undercling in the large pocket. Move up through crimps then left through two pinches into Three Finger Pocket. Continue left to join Petrified Jugs. Downclimb Petrified Jugs, then move right to the start of Three Finger Pocket, and climb it.

This is a bit contrived (in that you climb in a circle ;-) but climbs well and is a fun addition for some power endurance.

An alternate variation: Jerk-a-lope (<em>i.e.</em> Circle Jerk Bail out) V5/6 - sit start right of Three Finger Pocket as with Circle Jerk, but when you reach Three Finger Pocket, finish there, or continue left and finish on Petrified Jugs. This is really a nice route on its own - it is just overshadowed by the mega classic Three Finger Pocket.

Location

Start right of Three Finger Pocket, traverse left through Three Finger..., down Petrified Jugs, then up Three Fingers....

Protection

A pad.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Circle Jerk on Petrified Boulder.
[Hide Photo] Circle Jerk on Petrified Boulder.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Micah May
Durango CO
  V7
[Hide Comment] Regarding grade: before posting this, I asked quite a few local climbers what the grade should be. The most common response was "V8", but I also heard "5.12+/5.13-" and "similar to Sacred and Heart of the Storm", which both point more toward V7. Also, IMO, there is no move harder than V5/6, so I don't see how this can get to V8. It is a power endurance problem that basically adds a V5/6, a downclimb, then another V5... so I *think* that adds up to about a V7. If you think a different rating would be more appropriate, weigh in, and I will change the posting to reflect consensus. Regardless of the rating it's pretty fun, if a bit contrived. Check it out. Oct 24, 2022
Leland Stamper
Lander, WY
[Hide Comment] Another variation downclimbs the jugs and then breaks right after starting up three finger pocket traversing through crimps and/or a sharp mono to a sidpull jug then busts hard left over the bad landing to the lip. It is super fun, because it's long and has cool toe hooks. Oct 26, 2022
Kyle Edmondson
[Hide Comment] This climb looks dumb, but it is actually very good. It climbs like a sport route - 12c seems fair, similar to Heart of the Storm but a touch harder. 12c may feel sandbagged to those who don't have three finger wired, but it is no harder when you do. I think it was a Drew Hoch or Erik Durgin idea, but it is also likely it had been done way back as well, so no idea on the FA. Nov 6, 2022