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Routes in E. Poison Ivy Wall ("The Cave")
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Basket Case, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Born on the Fourth of July T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Broken Dreams S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bush League S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Calf Ripper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Crackhead S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Crimps for Wimps S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Deep End, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Don't Break It if You Can't Buy It S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Final Exam, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ivy League S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Jugs for Thugs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Just Say No to Crack S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Landers Last Gander S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Leaves of Three S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Longaberger S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Major League S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ninja Skill Called Trad S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pistol Squat S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Reach for your Dreams S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Roofs for Goofs S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sink or Swim S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Twelfth 12, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Unfinished Business S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Wet Dreams S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | Jordan Katz, Oct '22 |
| Page Views: | 252 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Jordan Katz on Oct 23, 2022 |
| Admins: | Courtney Curtner |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Private Property
Details
The right (east) side, all roped climbing, is owned by Village of Hanover, which seems ambivalent to climbing. Left side, bouldering, is private property, but the owner has not had a problem with climbing SO FAR. Continued access is far from guaranteed! Rapidly growing crag traffic has become a potential issue.
On the bouldering (west) side, please do not hang out up top or go exploring above the main cliff line. It is private property and we need to keep a low profile. The owner has been hands off so far. Let's try to ensure things stay that way please. Hanging out up top could cause problems with the property owner.
Please do not climb above the roped climbs. Hanging out on the edge of the cliff without ropes is dangerous and the last thing we want is to have an ambulance/injury/fatality there. Please don't endanger crag access through short-sighted behavior!
Please be upstanders and take good care of the crag to help preserve access. Don't leave your trash, and even pack out any trash somebody else might have left behind.
On the bouldering (west) side, please do not hang out up top or go exploring above the main cliff line. It is private property and we need to keep a low profile. The owner has been hands off so far. Let's try to ensure things stay that way please. Hanging out up top could cause problems with the property owner.
Please do not climb above the roped climbs. Hanging out on the edge of the cliff without ropes is dangerous and the last thing we want is to have an ambulance/injury/fatality there. Please don't endanger crag access through short-sighted behavior!
Please be upstanders and take good care of the crag to help preserve access. Don't leave your trash, and even pack out any trash somebody else might have left behind.
Description
Extension of "Just Say No to Crack." After the chains of Just Say No, prepare for the big red roof above you. Pull that, keep your composure, and mantle onto a juggy iron rail. Regain your composure again and finesse and power your way to the top!
As with many Cave topouts, some back cleaning is best. Directly stick clip the permadraw and skip the first bolt entirely. Then, extend the draw just above the lip on Just Say No to minimize rope drag, and back-clean the permadraw.
Will be dripping water for most of late winter and well into the spring.
Location
Same start as Just Say No to Crack. Middle-left in the Cave. Start just right of the "mini cave", and just left of a huge crack system.
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