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Fred

5.10a, Sport, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.4 from 15 votes
FA: bmdhacks, Audrey Gleser - Oct 2022
Washington > Northwest Region > Hwy 20 & N Casc… > Walker Valley &… > Calendar Butte > Nomad Buttress
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July DetailsDrop down

Description

Climb the aretes past the bonsai tree and up into the headwall.  Both pitches are the same difficulty, but If you want to do P2 it's best to link them because the P2 crux is right off the anchors.  P1 can be toproped on a 70m rope or belay from the top of P2 and rappel the route.  If you brought an 80m rope but no gear you can catch a toprope on Nomad Crack from the top of Fred.

Location

Between Nomad Crack and Tuni on the right side of the Nomad ledge.

Protection

P1+P2 linked requires 25 draws

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

First Ascent
[Hide Photo] First Ascent
Andrea taking in the views as she nears the top of pitch one.
[Hide Photo] Andrea taking in the views as she nears the top of pitch one.
Audrey following up the First Ascent.  We had to wear masks it was so smoky this day, but a big rain storm was coming and we wanted to get the climb done.
[Hide Photo] Audrey following up the First Ascent. We had to wear masks it was so smoky this day, but a big rain storm was coming and we wanted to get the climb done.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

bmdhacks
Bellingham, WA
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Tuni was the first sport route I ever developed. It closely follows weaknesses in the rock like a bolted trad climb, and consequently does a lot of wandering. I named it after my grandmother who passed away the week I sent the route. "Fred" (Frederick Arthur Dixon) was my grandfather, so I figured I'd name the route next to Tuni after him (not Fred Beckey). Possibly easier than Tuni, I hadn't seen the line before because it doesn't follow anything like a trad line. It's straight, and connects a series of horizontal jugs. The bolts try to keep you in interesting territory that will likely stay dry, and have no relation to where one would place trad gear. My grandfather didn't climb, but he had an undying love for Yosemite, and hopefully this route keeps his memory around even after I'm long gone. Oct 19, 2022
[Hide Comment] Awesome route! Long, fun and well bolted! May 28, 2023