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Fred
5.10a,
Sport, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 3.4 from 15
votes
FA:
bmdhacks, Audrey Gleser - Oct 2022
Washington
> Northwest Region
> Hwy 20 & N Casc…
> Walker Valley &…
> Calendar Butte
> Nomad Buttress
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July
Details
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.
Description
Climb the aretes past the bonsai tree and up into the headwall. Both pitches are the same difficulty, but If you want to do P2 it's best to link them because the P2 crux is right off the anchors. P1 can be toproped on a 70m rope or belay from the top of P2 and rappel the route. If you brought an 80m rope but no gear you can catch a toprope on Nomad Crack from the top of Fred.
Location
Between Nomad Crack and Tuni on the right side of the Nomad ledge.
Protection
P1+P2 linked requires 25 draws
[Hide Photo] Audrey following up the First Ascent. We had to wear masks it was so smoky this day, but a big rain storm was coming and we wanted to get the climb done.
Bellingham, WA