Heinz Sight AKA Child of Calm Chaos
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Type: | Trad, TR, 65 ft (20 m) |
FA: | Mary Bjorklund, Angela Heinz ; July 9th 2022 |
Page Views: | 128 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Mary Bjorklund on Oct 5, 2022 |
Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
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Description
Start by scrambling up the easy lower skirt of the formation, being conscious of any loose rock present on the ledge. After gaining the first bolt on climbers left side of the shallow corner, several gear placements are available to easily protect the next section, where a crack is present, before reaching the second bolt. The remaining bolt line follows the interesting drainage-like formation, with the anchors ending up and left of the last bolt. Good footwork is key to making this route feel it's appropriate grade. With many stem-like movements, be sure to stay conscious with your foot/rope orientation, making certain not to get the rope behind your legs.
This route is named in honor of Angela Heinz, her first and last FA. An adventuring woman of immense psych, patience, kindness, and a never-give-in attitude. Hindsight is 20/20, too often we don’t make the choices most fulfilling for our life, looking back in regret. Never let a day go by where you don’t have “Heinz Sight”, live immediately, like Ang.
Location
Walking past the Elysium Proper wall, you will encounter a west facing wall just prior to reaching the large car sized boulder. Heinz Sight can be identified on the left side of a shallow corner that follows up the crack line to a drainage-like top and finishing out left on the apex of the pinnacle.
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