Kibbles 'n bits
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Type: | Sport, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | bugz |
Page Views: | 1,161 total · 39/month |
Shared By: | Gee Monet on Oct 3, 2022 |
Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Another enjoyable climb and a good introduction to multi-pitch sport climbing. This route climbs similarly to Man's Best Friend but with bigger and more comfortable belay ledges. If you're lap coiling your rope, you're doing it wrong.
Pitch 1: Climb the first 3 bolts of MBF, then bust right and follow 4 more bolts to the belay ledge and a bolted anchor. 7 bolts total.
Pitch 2: Climb up to the red rock and clip a bolt. Pull a fun and cruxy move to get established on the upper headwall. The crux move can be tricky if you don't have good beta (body positioning, feet, core tension) but I won't spoil it - it's well protected. Continue up mostly slabby & bubbly rock to a bolted anchor just below the top. It's easy to top out and enjoy the views before rapping back down. 9 bolts.
Rappel the route. 2 raps with 1 60m rope.
Location
Use either the scramble approach or the rap approach from the parking lot as for MBF.
Tip: If rappelling in, I prefer to sling the big boulder wedged in the groove ~15' west of the actual bolted rap anchor. Use a large sling or cordelette for this. This is way easier and more secure than trying to rap from the anchor close to the edge and gives you something to belay your partner from on the way out.
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