If Milwaukee's Best showed that high-quality free climbing is possible on Storm Dome, Heart of Diamond raised the bar in terms of difficulty, quality, and position.
Heart of Diamond is the superlative granite free climb in Idaho. Comparable in difficulty to the Free Hallucinogen Wall, but only 750 ft in length, this route is absolutely stacked with incredible and difficult climbing. Every pitch is excellent and unique.
If you want to succeed, be prepared to use every trick in the book. This route has everything except long splitter cracks and comfortable belay ledges. With thin technical face climbing and nearly footless fingertip rails to big moves on beautifully sculpted holds, endless flake liebacks and undercling traverses, this route will reward those who give it their best.
Here is a pitch-by-pitch route description that some might find useful.
Grades are approximate as this route has only been freed by one person at the time of this post.
P1 The Sport Pitch 12 ***: A classic cragging pitch in its own right. Don't come to Storm Dome without climbing this pitch! From the anchor at the bottom of P1, climb up a short, left facing flake past face moves, a piece of gear, and some easy terrain. Pass a bolt and trend up and left toward thin face with 2 bolts to a handrail. Follow the rail and thin flake system up and left past several bolts and a few cruxes. Climb up a vertical flake with gear to a small roof with a bolt. Pull the roof past a couple more cruxes and bolts before traversing right to the anchor at a stance.
12 bolts. It is recommended to extend bolts 3, 9, 12, and any gear. Nothing bigger than 0.5 C4 equivalent is needed on this pitch.
P2 The Question Mark 13- ***: Climb straight up with fun face moves past two bolts and gear to a thin, horizontal seam. Protect the seam and tiptoe right until the footholds run out. Clip a bolt and pull the most difficult moves of the route along the seam until it's possible to stand up as it turns into more of a ramp feature. Catch your breath, clip a bolt, and climb a splitter flake to a stance at a bolt. Clip the bolt and pull a second crux directly left to another bolt. Continue directly left along a fingertip rail to the anchor at a stance.
6 bolts. To avoid rope drag, extend all gear in the vertical flake and every piece where the rope changes direction. Bring the whole rack from 00 if it's your first time on this pitch. You will want to belay the follower on this pitch. Fixing and following is not recommended.
P3 Adventure Punks 11 ***: Climb the immaculate face above the belay past a bolt to a series of flakes past two more bolts. After bolt 3, go up and slightly left through a smooth panel of rock above the flake to a gear placement in a horizontal. Climb sporty moves past a bolt in the A-frame overlap to a few fun face moves and one more bolt. Finish on an easy flake to anchor.
6 bolts. Extend bolt 4. Only finger-sized cams and smaller are needed unless you like to sew things up.
P4 The Spider Traverse 13- ***: This wild pitch climbs up and right past arching flakes to a long series of undercling traverses and handrails with nothing but a sheer wall below. The crux is well-protected, but the follower will have to ascend the rope if they fall on this pitch. Bring long slings (including the double-length) for any gear you place in the thick, solid flakes. Don't place gear in the expando flakes at the end of the pitch... that's what the bolts are for!
6 bolts. Extend bolt 3. Finger to thin-hand-sized cams with several long slings. You will want to belay the follower on this pitch. Fixing and following is not recommended.
P5 The Zag 12b **: Traverse left on an awesome layback flake that protects with gear. Continue left past two bolts with burly undercling traverses or reachy moves until it's possible to go straight up to a third bolt at a good stance. Clip the bolt and start bouldering across a fingertip traverse past a final bolt to a vertical flake and an anchor.
4 bolts and a thin hand-sized cam or two. After finishing the pitch, leader should lower and unclip the last bolt to prevent a big swing for the follower.
P6 The Diamond 12+ $$$: The money pitch? One of many. Climb directly above the belay on amazing flakes past 3 bolts until it's possible to traverse left. Don't be tempted to place gear in the hollow flakes above or left of bolt 3. After traversing left, place gear in a flake by a tiny tree and pull the roof past a bolt, following the path of least resistance. Climb flakes right and up past two more bolts to a jug. Rest up, then punch it up and then right past 4 bolts and many cruxes to another good stance. Follow amazing rails up and left, past an optional gear placement or two, to the anchor. Enjoy the first good belay ledge in 6 pitches. The crux on this pitch is height-dependent and could be harder if you're short.
10 bolts and cams up to finger-sized. Extend bolts 2, 3, 4, 5, and any gear placements with long slings to reduce rope drag on this long, wandering pitch.
P7 Splitter to the Bitter End 11++***: Make committing moves up and left off the belay ledge to a high first bolt. Traverse the roof up and right on underclings past another bolt to a left-angling crack. Place gear and climb straight above the crack through a rock scar with unique holds. Crank on flakes for 2 bolts to a reachy move. Above the last bolt, continue up and left, following an angling seam, until it's possible to step left to easier terrain. Continue up broken but excellent cracks to the top of the route.
4 bolts and the whole rack. Extend bolts 1 and 3, as well as any gear placements before or after traverses.
To descend, either rap the route, skipping the P4 anchor, or walk off.
To summit, take loose 3rd class ledges up and left to the top of the wall.
Zig-zag up 3rd class ledges below the middle of the blankest, sheerest part of the wall to the right of Milwaukee's Best. The belay anchor at the base of P1 is about 100' up from the bottom of the face. The route goes straight up the wall with a few traverses.
See the topo for details.
Singles from 00 to #1. Totems recommended.
14 draws of which 8-9 should be extendable slings. 1 double-length sling.
All fixed hardware is 3/8" stainless steel.
Bring a small 9/16" wrench and blue Loctite if any traverse bolts get loose, especially on P4. Some nuts on other pitches are already glued down to prevent loosening.
70m rope to rap the route. You can crag P1 with a 70m rope from the belay ledges below the route.
Ascender for the follower if they fall on the P4 traverse.
Keene, NH
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I thought the hardest moves on the route were navigating the last two bolts on p2. really tricky and unnerving slab moves. The redpoint crux though is p6, definitely the pumpiest pitch on the route, with the hardest moves coming at the end. More people should get on this! Oct 4, 2023