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Matrimoany

5.7, Trad, 115 ft (35 m),  Avg: 2 from 3 votes
FA: Adam and Kendra Beach - September 2022
New Hampshire > WM: Pinkham / P… > 11. Pine Mountain

Description

Climb up about 18 ft to the first bolt next to a small left facing flake. Slab past two more bolts, over a small overlap, to a large overlap with surprisingly good gear. Navigate the overlap and head up and right past a flake with a couple of good enough nut placements. Head through a patch of pegmatite, past a few more bolts, and a couple pieces of gear to a two bolt anchor above a final overlap. Direct to the overlap offers better climbing and better protection, right is much easier, but poorly protected. Longer draws before the larger overlaps will significantly reduce rope drag.

One 70m rope will get you down, but close the system and swing rappelers left.

Location

Located left of Contact. Look for a first bolt next to a small left facing flake 18 ft up, then two more bolts before a large overlap with gear.

Protection

Bolts, Cams to .75, Nuts, Tricams would also work quite well.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The "line" of Unholy Matrimony RW at the belay (We actually climbed the overlap left of the photo on Old Route and then did some climbing and rope shenanigans to get back onto the route ! )
[Hide Photo] The "line" of Unholy Matrimony RW at the belay (We actually climbed the overlap left of the photo on Old Route and then did some climbing and rope shenanigans to get back onto the route ! )
RW at overlap of Unholy Matrimony
[Hide Photo] RW at overlap of Unholy Matrimony

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
 
[Hide Comment] I.M.O., N.F.W. the overlap is 5.7 ! Even “ French Freeing” on the spectacular cam placement just over the lip does no good.
Since neither of us actually did the move, we can’t suggest a rating. However, if after the 2nd bolt you move left to Old Route Direct one can then move back to this route, although a bit run-out. Sep 30, 2022
a beach
northeast
  5.7
[Hide Comment] I stepped left to the little knob in the overlap and stepped up on with my left foot and palmed down on the little crack with my right hand. Matt Barker was there when we bolted it and it stays away from old route direct which, I believe goes further left through the lower overlaps. The cam is a little ways to the right, but still well protected.

All the little stuff aside, did you climb the rest of the route, how was that? Sep 30, 2022
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
 
[Hide Comment] Oh, yes. We climbed over the overlap at Old Route Direct, then moved back up-and-right to regain the route at the next bolt, 20-25 ft above the Overlap. ( Then did a bit of finagling to reduce rope drag; I.e. lowered off, unclipped the bolt immediately below the overlap, then reclimbed via Old R. D.)
OK line. Gave it 2 stars. The difficulty of the overlap (I guess just physical, not technical) seems out of character with the rest of the route. To me, Old Route Direct seemed a bit better line.

Due to 75+ yr old knees, big steps left are a bit harder than rights, so never thought about a left leg up, but L or R it’s a BIG step! Reminded me a bit of the crux on Trail of Tears Memorial. Sep 30, 2022