PRINT: Rock Climb Shaggy's Roof, Yosemite National Park

Shaggy's Roof

5.11a, Trad, 105 ft (32 m),

Avg: 2.4 from 7 votes
FA: Jay Selvidge
California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Valley S Side > N Sentinel Creek Area

Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations. Details

Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.

Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.

Description

This route has great hand-jamming in great rock with a wild and burly crux through the roof.

Start at the base of Brownoser and climb the 5th class section up and right to get to a large tree coming straight out of the corner. Keep going up the mossy chimney/gully from here (don't go onto the face with the chossy finger crack). Then head out left using underclings and side pulls (careful of the loose block) to get to the start of the hand crack.

Bolted anchor at the top of the crack, located on a ledge around the right of the arete when viewed from the bottom. Rappel the route with a 70m rope. Lowering instead of rappelling increases the risk of getting the rope stuck in the crack.

Location

At the left-facing corner to the right of Brownoser, the main crack line going up and through the roof

Protection

Cams (BD) sizes 0.5 - 3 with doubles of 0.75 - 2. Plenty of extendable draws. Optional extras: No. 4

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Shaggy's Roof with Brownoser on left side of photo. Sep '22

almost home free

I thought I was foot jamming, apparently I was just smearing high friction

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Alexey Zelditch
San Jose

twice I climb this route and both times was screwed by terrible rope drug immediately after passing the roof. And every time I see anyone climbing this route I see same problem with other climbers. This rope drug seems unavoidable because of the crack profile and the way rope goes into crack. Maybe 10b variation on the right recently posted is the way to do this route. Oct 8, 2023

Eric Gabel

Just to clear things up a bit. Shaggy (aka Jay Selvidge) climbed this originally, and went up a couple more pitches I believe. Mar 18, 2024

Jason Pirolo
San Francisco

Found no issue with rope drag if protected thoughtfully.

*Beta Alert**

extended hand size cam in splitter below roof alcove.
Extended # 4 shoved deep in roof crack to not plug up jams
hand size cam with regular sized draw in the leftward slanting crack above to keep it our of the cavey abyss. Sep 16, 2024