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M.D.R.

5.5, Trad, TR, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 1.5 from 2 votes
FA: Grant Hiskes, 6/1983.
California > Sierra Eastside > Eastern Hills > Benton Crags > Junk Food Rock > Left Side

Description

Climbs up slab-esque ramp going left into a bush-filled crack that leads up to the walk-off ledge and a conveniently placed crack at the top in which to build the gear anchor. Good route for someone new to trad lead climbing. Walk-off left over 3rd Class terrain and then around to the base of the wall.

Location

Farthest route left on Junk Food Rock (Left Side). See Mammoth Area Rock Climbs book by Marty Lewis for topo.

Protection

No bolts or anchor chains on route. Good pro placements available once at top of ramp at start. Good vertical crack at top for gear anchor. Standard rack from .3 - 2 with at least 5 draws as well as standard anchor material will give more than enough to protect the route and set up a top rope if desired.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kevin Patterson
Lower Hutt, NZ
  5.5
[Hide Comment] The route as described has no fixed gear. However if you go up the ridge and move right you can get to the alcove where there are the anchor chains. This is where the direct face routes Wheaties and High Weed Glutin finish. Just 2-3 steps of exposed 5.4 difficulty around a buttress 10m short of the anchor chains, easily protected with a single 2" cam. Jun 18, 2024