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Cirith Ungol

5.6, Trad, 140 ft (42 m),  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Jim Slichter, Leslie Hladysz, Denise Hardesty, Vern Olson September 13, 2022
S Dakota > Custer SP > Sylvan Lake > Middle Earth > Towers of Teeth > Ephel Duath

Description

*The Pass of Cirith Ungol bore secret access through the Ephel Duath via the dangerous tunnels of Shelob.*

Another moderate climb on this amazing face.  Start on the far left lower corner of the face 15' to the left of the start of Morannon at the base of a chimney.  Climb a series of flakes and faces diagonaling up and right eventually reaching the anchors for Waste Not which are at the upper right corner of the face.  Along the way you will clip the fourth bolt on Morannon, 2-3 bolts on Second Breakfast, the final bolt on Waste Not, plus supplement the bolts with trad protection.  Two ropes needed for the rappel.

Location

Start at the far left side of the south face of Ephel Duath at a flake system which diagonals up to the right.  The start is just right of the bottom of the chimney that lies midway between Morannon and the Trail of Teeth.

Protection

4-5 bolts, 0.3-1 Camalots, 8-10 shoulder length slings to minimize rope drag, one double length sling to protect the downclimb between Morannon and Second Breakfast.

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The FA of Cirith Ungol
[Hide Photo] The FA of Cirith Ungol