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The Dream Machine

5.10a/b, Sport, Alpine, 430 ft (130 m), 4 pitches,  Avg: 3.4 from 8 votes
FA: Matt Sewall, September 2022
Nevada > Western Nevada > Santa Rosa Range > Paradise Valley > Cleft

Description

3 pitches of fun climbing followed by a tedious scramble to a wild "Cleft crossing" moment that involves bridging a 40ft drop. Routes begins to the left of the cave in the center of the wall. None of the climbing is incredibly sustained although a couple individual moves down low might pose some challenges.

Pitch 1: 10c, 30m

Climb up slightly off-vertical rock varied by short slightly overhanging kickbacks. I used some variety of tiny crimps, rock-over moves, and creativity to reach extended period of easy climbing to anchors (but really anything may work). The upper portion of the pitch is super fun although somewhat easy and runout.

Pitch 2: 10a, 30m

Easy and somewhat runout slab climbing lead to a headwall with great rock quality, a telephone hold, and deep mystery pockets.

Pitch 3: 5.8 35m

Continue easy slab climbing until gaining arete to pass over a roof. From here, follow bolts trending right to anchor.

Pitch 4: 5.6 / 4th class / wtf

30m of 4th class scrambling (with 2 bolts along the way) - aim for the gap in the Cleft at the top of the wall. Bridge the wild chasm, clip a bolt, and commit to crossing. Anchor is 5m above on a large ledge.

Location

To the left of the large cave near Blue Eyes.

Protection

14 QuickDraws

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Threesome Climbing P1  (Oct 15, 2022)
[Hide Photo] Threesome Climbing P1 (Oct 15, 2022)
Climbing P1 (Oct 15, 2022)
[Hide Photo] Climbing P1 (Oct 15, 2022)
Crossing the Cleft
[Hide Photo] Crossing the Cleft
4th pitch gap you are aiming for
[Hide Photo] 4th pitch gap you are aiming for
First pitch of the route with fixed rope hanging down.
[Hide Photo] First pitch of the route with fixed rope hanging down.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jesse Weber
Flagstaff, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] Superb route! Creatively envisioned, very well equipped, meticulously cleaned but could still use more traffic. The 4th pitch is a fun cherry on top of a very enjoyable climb. Major props to you who established the route! Oct 18, 2023
Casey Elliott
Reno, NV
 
[Hide Comment] Probably some of the best rock on the cleft. Short cruxes and fun. We simul-climbed the route and it was very doable. Oct 27, 2024