Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Petzoldt Ridge

5.6, Trad, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 6 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 3.3 from 4 votes
FA: July 14, 1941; Paul Petzoldt, Elizabeth Cowles, Marry Merrick and Frederick Wilson Jr.
Wyoming > Grand Teton NP > Grand Teton

Description

This is the original line on the ridge and follows weaknesses on the face to the right of the crest. The rock quality is mostly excellent and several enjoyable variations are possible.

(1) The original start in the Stettner Couloir is no longer recommended because of increased rockfall in the couloir. We avoided the couloir by climbing a variation starting at the base of the buttress, moving up and traversing right for two short pitches to the base of the left facing corner.

(2) Climb the left facing corner up left past a couple of old fixed pitons and then slightly right to a small ledge below a steeper section & small roof. (Note that this corner feature is not visible when standing at the toe of the buttress.)

(3) Climb through the roof and a short left facing corner and then follow a crack system to a belay

(4) continue up the crack system to a belay left of a roof.

(5) climb a gully or cracks on either side and belay below a chimney

(6) climb the chimney and then scramble to the top of the ridge

From the top of the buttress a short rappel leads to the notch and a large left (west) trending ramp that joins the Exum Ridge Ridge above the Golden Stair.

Location

Follow the black dike approach as for Petzoldt Direct

Protection

Standard Rack to 3”

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

This is where the weakness in the rock bands is the easiest. We actually went underneath the snow where it was thickest. On top of the snow is just as sketchy without micros or softer snow. Most ideal is when the couloir has no snow. Watch for rockfall!
[Hide Photo] This is where the weakness in the rock bands is the easiest. We actually went underneath the snow where it was thickest. On top of the snow is just as sketchy without micros or softer snow. Most id…
Petzoldt Ridge is the first buttress to the right of Exum Ridge
[Hide Photo] Petzoldt Ridge is the first buttress to the right of Exum Ridge