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Deadman Dike

5.11b, Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches,  Avg: 4 from 1 vote
FA: Stu Pollack, Dave Parks
California > Sonora Pass Hig… > Chipmunk Flat > Deadman Buttress > Main Buttress

Description

A wonderful line. From the Cemetery, climb a 5.8 crack/dike system to reach Purgatory Ledge. Climb a small crack to reach a set of bolted dikes, passing an intermediate anchor. Continue up and left via a junky 5.8 corner system or pull a 5.9 roof to the right to reach the top of the formation. Walk off down the gully to the west of the formation.

Bolts were replaced with fresh ASCA hardware in 2015.

Location

Center of the Main Buttress. See topo posted on the Main Buttress page.

Protection

Double rack to 3". Bring extra 4" if climbing the roof finish.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Line of Deadman Dike. The roof finish is to the right and the original finish is to the left.
[Hide Photo] Line of Deadman Dike. The roof finish is to the right and the original finish is to the left.
Looking down the dike system of the crux of Deadman Dike.
[Hide Photo] Looking down the dike system of the crux of Deadman Dike.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brad Young
Twain Harte, CA
[Hide Comment] A lot of this route's crux pitch is thin (5.11), bolt-protected face. Most or all of the original bolts were quarter inch, carbon steel.

While Roger Putnam was establishing new routes in the area, he took the time (lots of time) to pull and replace every bolt on this route. All bolts are now A.S.C.A. half inch stainless! Thanks A.S.C.A. (and you who donate to it) for the quality gear, and thanks to Roger for all the time and sweat. Sep 5, 2022