Land Down Under
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British PG13
| Type: | Sport, 115 ft (35 m) |
| GPS: | 46.66863, -121.14727 |
| FA: | Unknown. |
| Page Views: | 456 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Sep 1, 2022 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
Caveat Emptor: I'm unsure of the name, rating, or first ascent of this route. If anyone knows or has the apparently out-of-print guidebook and can comment below I'll update this description accordingly.
This route is on the overhanging side of Honeycomb Buttress and is the farthest left route on the wall, just left of the obvious arete of The Apiary. It has an intermediate anchor level with the anchor of The Apiary, but continues another six or so bolts to a second anchor high on the wall.
Climb slick, overhanging blocks, with holds that never face the way you want them to the intermediate anchor. A hard-to-read and hard-to-climb style, but brilliant climbing. Continue* past the intermediate anchor up slightly less slick, less overhanging, but still with holds that never face the way you want them to a second anchor.
(*) Unfortunately, there are few little problems with the extension: First, there is a huge (1000 lb) detached block that you must fully commit to (both hands and feet) near the second or third bolt. If it stays on, no big deal. If it went, life would change for you and/or your belayer. Second, the final anchor only has one bolt (the other has been chopped). This last pitch, for good reason, seems to suffer from lack of traffic, and if you do try it, maybe bring a 0.5 Camalot to protect a run out to the anchor and a bolt kit to fix that anchor... And think light thoughts moving past that detached block.



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