Blind Faith

This is the face and finger crack that goes into the chimney directly above the belay, and traverses left out of the alcove at the top.  It is really fun for a 5.8 (maybe 9- route) and is a great warmup.  The climbing is really fun and its on great rock.  Once you have surmounted the chimney, you will be in a small alcove about 10 feet below the top of the wall.  Clip the bolt on the left face of the alcove and traverse low (Blind Faith) staying out of the roof until you are left of the alcove.  One harder well protected move takes you to the belay.  Most of the climb is face climbing using the crack system for protection.  A #4 Camalot can be used in the chimney but isn't mandatory, a #3 will protect the moves into the alcove with a long sling.  It is possible to go straight up out of the alcove, but its a bit grovelly and there are no anchors, people who don't have Blind Faith often go this way.

I didn't call it 5.8+ as its no sandbag, but the final crux will make you work.  A few people have suggested 5.9 for the final move, it helps to be tall but my 5'2" wife can send it.  

Directly above the belay ledge. Start climbing a fun face with a thin crack for protection.

Single rack to a #4 Camalot (#4 is optional). Bring a long sling for last move into the alcove.  Save a finger sized piece (10/11 stopper or 0.5 camalot) for the last crux.