Type: Trad, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Al Spero, Dane Waterman, 1975
Page Views: 324 total · 11/month
Shared By: Kenneth Hoehn on Aug 31, 2022
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Permits Required to Climb on City of Meriden, CT properties. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Climb the chimney splitting the outrageous, toothed buttress on the far left side of Castle Crag. Start in the back of the chimney, climb up and out, over the roof, and follow the narrow chimney to the top. Choss at the beginning leads to progressively better rock.

Location Suggest change

From the Castle Craig parking lot, follow the Metacomet Trail (blue blazes) West past the main overlook, about 400ft total, to a wide gully with some trees. Follow this gully down and the Jaws buttress will be one of the first on the left.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack, big cams helpful. Decent options for gear anchor at top. Toproping not recommended due to swing potential.

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