Northwest Couloirs

This is the easiest and most often climbed route to the 11,901’ summit of Nez Perce. It is a time consuming endeavor with complicated route finding in the upper 1000’ of the mountain.

Begin at the Lupine Meadows trailhead and hike 3.1 miles to the junction of the Garnet Canyon trail. Take a left on the Garnet Canyon trail and hike to the Garnet Canyon Meadows at 9,400’. Leave the Garnet Canyon Trail (as it continues to the lower saddle of the Grand Teton) by taking a left on the trail for the Middle and South Tetons. Leave the trail and head south across the talus at about 10,000’. The goal here is to reach the cliff walls of the North Face of Nez Perce at 10,400’. By hugging tightly against the north face and following it southwest to 10,800’, much loose rock and talus hopping can be avoided. From here the route finding challenges begin.

There are several gullies/couloirs which trend southeast. Pick one and continue upwards linking grassy ledges to 11,500’. If the climbing becomes difficult, look to traverse into the other gully/couloir. This section should be able to be maintained at 3rd class. Going all the way to the saddle at 11,600’ is not required. From 11,500’, begin to traverse eastward until under the final north facing summit headwall.

This is where the technical climbing begins. Look for a 4th class crack/chimney system angling right to left across a slab at ~11,600’. This pitch is 30 meters and has a slung block rappel anchor near (not quite at) the end of the pitch. From here traverse slabby ledges (exposed 3rd class) for several hundred feet to the east under clean vertical headwalls until another right to left leaning 4th class slabbier section is reached. Climb this for 30 meters until easier 3rd class terrain is gained on the arete. 3rd class the final summit bit by turning right, angling back to the southwest, gaining the west ridge and finally the summit.

To descend: 

1. Reverse the route down climbing the two 4th class sections.

2. There are 2 optional rappels available. To find the first, head back down 3rd class terrain along the west ridge and when things get steep look to the right for a 3 pin anchor. From here a 25-30 meter rappel gets you to the end of the third class slab/ledge traverse. So, now traverse west to the top of the original 4th class pitch. The final rappel anchor is here, but is a bit difficult to find. It is a slung block/flake on a smaller ledge most likely 20’ below you under a small overhang. This rap is perhaps a bit shorter at 20-25 meters.

The northwest side of Nez Perce.

None needed if comfortable soloing up and down exposed 4th class. If less comfortable, and the 2 optional rappels are to be used, a 60 meter rope and some cord would be useful (I used 2 30 meter 8 mm twins which worked perfectly). Also, a light rack of nuts, a couple of cams and a couple of slings can be of use to belay a less confident leader and/or follower.