Type: Trad, Alpine, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches
GPS: 46.53517, 11.99772
FA: Andrighetto, Cipriani, Palma 1988
Page Views: 381 total · 8/month
Shared By: RKM on Aug 25, 2022
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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Description Suggest change

Route starts right of the popular M. Spéciale with a steep pitch to a ledge system.  Angle up and left on the smooth buttress - left of a crack/flake system.  Beautiful high angle climbing with good holds and great exposure.  Go left of the big roof up a little arete and end on a scree slope.  Continue up to a black face with crack and shallow chimney system.  Pull a small overhanging section near the top and up to the traverse ledge right.

Go climbers right along a narrow ledge system, past the top out of the Giordano route until forced down a bit to a big ring bolt and a 25 meter free hanging rap.  Continue south on little trails hugging the wall.  The gully below this appears to have washed out recently and it was very uncomfortable and unstable down climbing and sliding.  As soon as you can,  travers back north to base of wall.

Location Suggest change

Park close to the Sassi Fort (military museum) north of Falzarago Pass tram area.  I parked across the road from the museum, right where the trail starts up to face.  Walk east up the trail and eventual scree field below the west fact of Lagazuoi Piccolo west face.  Good description and picture in the James Rushforth guide - page 341.

Protection Suggest change

Old threads and some pitons. Plenty of options exist

Photos

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