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Chameleon

5.12a, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 3.8 from 12 votes
FA: Rances Rodriguez, Elek Lane
California > San Francisco B… > E Bay Area > Mt Diablo SP > Boy Scout Rocks > Lower Tier
Warning Access Issue: Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock DetailsDrop down

Description

Climb the first two bolts up to an obvious pocket above the crack. From there the business begins. A cryptic, crimp-fest and delicate moves lead you up six bolts the  links into Stegosaurus to the left via a short runout. From there finish Stegosaurus hitting one more crux on your way to the top of the cliff.

The crack was not used by the first ascents to get from the 3rd to 4th bolt given that this way felt harder and less probable. The climbing stayed on the face more or less in line with these bolts.

Location

Starts between Stegosaurus and Dinosaur.

Protection

11 bolts (6" glue-ins, 2022) to lower-off anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Purple = Godzilla
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Yellow = Stegosaurus
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Green = Chameleon
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Red = Dinosaur
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Blue = Miwok
[Hide Photo] Purple = Godzilla Yellow = Stegosaurus Green = Chameleon Red = Dinosaur Blue = Miwok
Purple: Stegosaurs 5.11b
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Blue: Chameleon, 5.12a
[Hide Photo] Purple: Stegosaurs 5.11b Blue: Chameleon, 5.12a

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Lenore Sparks
Bishop, CA
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] A gem! Quite sustained with delicate and thoughtful beta! You must climb a couple of lower cruxes and then blast into the cruz of Stegosaurs. Nice one Rances! Apr 29, 2023