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Chameleon
5.12a,
Sport, 90 ft (27 m),
Avg: 3.8 from 12
votes
FA: Rances Rodriguez, Elek Lane
California
> San Francisco B…
> E Bay Area
> Mt Diablo SP
> Boy Scout Rocks
> Lower Tier
Access Issue: Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock
Details
Castle Rock in Pine Canyon and the Wanna Get Away areas are closed for peregrine falcon nesting season, from February 1 through July 31st every year. All other Mount Diablo area crags are open to climbing. The news release is
linked here parks.ca.gov/NewsRelease/493.
Description
Climb the first two bolts up to an obvious pocket above the crack. From there the business begins. A cryptic, crimp-fest and delicate moves lead you up six bolts the links into Stegosaurus to the left via a short runout. From there finish Stegosaurus hitting one more crux on your way to the top of the cliff.
The crack was not used by the first ascents to get from the 3rd to 4th bolt given that this way felt harder and less probable. The climbing stayed on the face more or less in line with these bolts.
Location
Starts between Stegosaurus and Dinosaur.
Protection
11 bolts (6" glue-ins, 2022) to lower-off anchors.
[Hide Photo] Purple = Godzilla Yellow = Stegosaurus Green = Chameleon Red = Dinosaur Blue = Miwok
[Hide Photo] Purple: Stegosaurs 5.11b Blue: Chameleon, 5.12a
Bishop, CA