All Locations > Wyoming > Laramie Area > Vedauwoo > Telephone Rd > Eagle Rock

Witchy Woman

Name: Witchy Woman
Rating: 2.5

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British

Routes in Eagle Rock

L › R R › L A › Z

	A-okay T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Angry Birds T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Bag Lady, The V6 7A
	Broken Wing T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Corner Fingers T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Dead Wing T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Eagle Brand T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Eagle Rock Dyno V6 7A
	Go Through With It T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Gong Show (submitted as The Flake Route), The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Hard To Tell T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Midway Crisis T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Smells Like Chemo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Witchy Woman T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type:	Trad, 40 ft (12 m)
GPS:	41.3183, -105.3351
FA:	Carrie Lane and Bob Scarpelli
Page Views:	360 total · 8/month
Shared By:	Carrie Lane on Aug 21, 2022
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

We couldn’t come up with a bird-themed name so we came up with a song by The Eagles. This climbs the left-facing dihedral to the right of Broken Wing and Dead Wing with fun laybacks, jams, and smears. If you wear a helmet like I did, the awkward top out may be the crux. This has consistent movement from bottom to top. The anchors are on the boulder above the left face of the dihedral. Belay from below the starting ledge, and anchor in.

The route is tips to small hands size. Thoughtful gear placements are needed on the upper half of the route. A #5 could be used at horizontal just below the anchor.

The rock on the right side of the dihedral at the start of the route is “sugary”. It is noticeable for the first 4-5 feet and is not an issue after that. Avoid brushing it with your body as you start the climb, as you will likely shed some rock on your belayer.

Location

This pitch is about 30 feet to the right of Broken Wing and Dead Wing. There is an obvious, right-leaning hand crack that transects the upper left face of the open book/dihedral.

Protection

On the upper section, I used old school #0 and #00 Friends from Bob’s gear stash. 0.3- #1 Camalots can be placed on the lower half of the route. A #5 Camalot could be used in the top horizontal.