SW Buttress of Dione

Route info from here: https://www.zenithguides.ca/newcrag

Begin with first 3 pitches of Dehydrated on Dalwhinnie. Or from couloir approach follow a bolt or two up easy 5th class terrain to a 2 bolt belay at top of blocky gully where you look out at the S face proper. Same as p.4 of Dehydrated.

5. Short steep 5.6 crack on left of belay then diagonal up and right to easier terrain. A 65m pitch is possible to just below notch where the SW spur splits off. Lots of loose rock 5.4-5.7 depending on where you go, many options.

6. 23m 5.9 Right most hand crack to groove. Stem up and out groove to easy crack and two bolt belay on top of pedestal.

7. 25m 5.9+ Follow steep crack to ledge with (now two) bolts.

8. 35m 5.10a Follow face crack with face holds  and up to hanging easier ramp. Excellent climbing.

9. 10m easy. Move belay to base of steep ridge (or link to previous pitch). 

10. 35m 5.9+ (loose) Up face, then step left to broken corners. Back up to prow and to the top. OR Straight up the face past two bolts 5.10a (sparse gear after bolts). 2 bolt belay right near top out of Dehydrated.

Descent: Scramble along ridge to summit ledge of Dione in 10 minutes then down-climb/rappel SE face for descent.

SW buttress is reached as for Dehydrated. From Red Tit Col, traverse along the wide Dione glacier on the west side of the peak's long southern ridge. The line is easily visible from the Haberl Hut. Mid-late season moat crossing to gain rock presents a challenge. 1.5 hr approach. 

See writeup from FA: https://www.zenithguides.ca/newcrag

Standard traditional rack. Ice axe, light crampons, and (seasonal) snow pickets.