Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches
FA: Marlin Thorman and Chris Nunley, 2022.
Page Views: 603 total · 26/month
Shared By: Marlin Thorman on Aug 9, 2022
Admins: Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn

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Description Suggest change

This route is full of really good 5.10 and 5.11 crack climbing.  Everything that is 5.11 can be pulled through on gear although the crux pitch is sustained 5.11 climbing.  The C1 aid portion is short (10ft) and very straightforward pulling on gear (there are several fixed nuts through here).  All belays are bolted except for pitch 1 which is a slung flake.

P1 - 5.9
Climb up through flakes and ledges before finally pulling into some great crack climbing about halfway up the pitch.  Follow this crack up to a ledge below another short but steep corner.  After this corner you will reach a large ledge with slung block.

P2 - 5.10b
Follow the steep corner directly above the belay past a bulge (crux) and to the base of a right trending ramp.  Follow this ramp up to the top before stepping right and then up through a small chimney/slot.  This leads to a very fun 5.9 finger crack trending up and left.  The final slot exit to the belay is more awkward than hard.

P3 - 5.11b/c, C1
Take the thin crack up the face directly above the belay.  This ends at a steep face.  From here steep face climbing with good holds gets you to the upper lip of the roof.  A .4 fits in at the lip, aid off this through 2 fixed nuts to get into the crack above (10ft of straight forward C1 aid).  Enjoy a few flared hand jams before it pinches down to an amazing 5.11 finger crack.  Just as the crack steepens it widens as well.  Rest up before firing the remaining layback/hand jams to the roof.  There isn't really a specific crux here but the pump clock will be running!  At the roof traverse right to the anchors.

P4 - 5.10+
Follow the crack up and left from the belay.  Just as the crack goes hard left step back right under a sharp fin looking feature.  Follow the ramp up until you are standing on a ledge.  Make a couple of face moves (crux) to reach the crack and start laybacking.  The climbing soon eases in difficulty and ends at a decent ledge with 2 bolts.

P5 - 5.11b
Work left on easy terrain (5.7) towards the big roof.  You are aiming for the right hand end which has a great hand crack in it.  Jam out the roof (crux) and wiggle onto the ramp above (the best way is to get your left hip on the edge of the ramp above the roof....awkward!).  Follow easy terrain above and left until you can skirt right under another roof and escape to the top.

Pitch 3 would be a stand alone classic at most any cliff.  Amazing climbing with everything from fingers to hands and some face climbing thrown in as well!  

Calling all strong climbers!  The C1 portion of the route is short (10 ft) and straight forward to aid through.  For those who want to try and free this section, there are several fixed nuts and it will probably go free in the mid to hard 5.12 range.  Go get the FFA and report back!!

I want to thank Eric and Arden for bolting the belays and thanks to Nathan, Jonathan, Hans and Keith for all your help in scrubbing and cleaning!

Location Suggest change

The route follows a series of cracks up the north face of Lions Head.  It starts about 100 ft to the right of the popular Lion Tamer.  There is a tree at the base of pitch 3 in a slot that is a good landmark.

Protection Suggest change

Doubles from .2 to #3 with triples in the .3 to .75 and a single #4. A single set of nuts (offsets more useful than regular). Also a .3/.4 and .4/.5 offset cam come in very handy.

Descent Suggest change

Rappel the route to descend back to the base.  You need to drag a 2nd rope up to the top of pitch 2 as that pitch is 40m long.  All other pitches can be rappelled with a single 70m rope.