Type: Trad, Alpine, 2000 ft (606 m)
FA: most likely by Tselxweyeqw goat hunters
Page Views: 45 total · 4/month
Shared By: Dru B. on Aug 1, 2022
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

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One of the best scrambles in the Rexford Group, and can be done easily either as a long day trip from cars or a short daytrip from a camp in the basin below Mount Rexford and South Nesakwatch Spire. 

Follow the Nesakwatch and Rexford trail to the alpine talus bowl below and northwest of North Nesakwatch Spire. Bushwack directly up through krummholz to the col at the base of North Nesakwatch Spire's north ridge. Now, go the other way. Head north along the divide, and scramble up to the top of the unnamed bump between North Nesakwatch and south Illusion. Descend into the notch to its north, and deal with a short section of very tight and troublesome waist-deep krummholz in the col. From here, circle to the right to outflank a steep wall, and climb slabs, short walls and snowpatches up the south ridge of South Illusion itself to gain the level summit ridge. Walk along beautiful granite slabs to the summit, overlooking the North illusion-South illusion col. Return the same way.


Same as for Rexford and Nesakwatch Spires to the talus bowl NW of North Nesakwatch Spire


ice axe is useful when snow is present; typically not steep enough to warrant crampons