High Gravity

Four pitches of stellar climbing and two pitches of fun moderate climbing.  This route finishes on the NE arete proper of the Third Pillar of Dana.  It climbs half a pitch of the Lenticular Limbo on P3 and the 4th crux pitch is part of the old aid climb/ presumably abandoned free project The One That Got Away.  

P1:  Climb up the right side of the Texas Block to a bolt protecting the start of the corner.  Continue up the corner to a belay out left on the arete about 20' before the corner ends.  35m,10d.  

P2:  Step right back into the corner or kneebar up the sick flake above the belay to a ledge.  Continue up 5.8 double hand crack flakes to moderate blocky climbing to the bolted belay at the bottom of the shield.   60m, 5.10.

P3:  Move left off the ledge to the nearest (furthest right) of the right facing corners (overlaps with Lenticular Limbo).  Layback over the bulge to an overhanging perfect hands corner.  Above the corner continue up and right along a moderate ramp to the bolted belay in the middle of the shield.  40m, 5.10.  

P4:  Climb the splitter up the headwall with a thin and sustained double cracks crux at the top.  Four bolts and gear from green c3 to 0.5 camalot.  30m,11d.

P5:  Start on the left side of the massive ledge under the arete.  Crisp fingers lead to a crack switch at a bolt.  Continue up the arete past 3 more bolts following a fingers splitter to a bolted belay.  Four bolts plus gear to 0.75 camalot.  30m, 5.11.  

P6:  The glory pitch.  Climb straight up the arete past a bolt protecting with micro cams in stellar cracks out right.  Save a couple green c3's/ purple Metolius for the compression crux up high and a 0.4 camalot fits well after the crux.  Top out on the summit about 15' right of the Regular Route.  000 c3 to 0. 4 camalot with doubles in 00-blue Metolius.  20m, 5.11+.  

The entire route is to the right of the Regular Route.  It climbs the upper half of the stunning shield and the NE arete.  Start about 30' right of a massive RFC at the Texas Block.