Connect with Facebook
Sisara*
5.10c/d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.3 from 12
votes
Routes in (b) Central Area
|
|
A Group of Mysteries of Frenchwoman T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
A Hatch T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
A Ship Called Black Rock T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
An Act of Strange Boar T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Baby Tapir T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Below Lissen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Cattalk T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
He is Truly a Great Airplane (Hitaga) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
House of the 7th Bobcat T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Law & Order (p2) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Law and Order T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Lookout Point Direct (p3) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Money T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Rice Krispies T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Sisara* T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Why Here, Tiger Lily? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 138 ft (42 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 595 total · 57/month |
| Shared By: | Jon Nelson on Jul 30, 2022 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·Your Star Rating:
Description
An arete climb that switches direction. Longer and more sustained than Spineless, yet with slightly easier moves. The rock is quite grippy, so you might be surprised in spots that you are still on the rock.
Start laybacking the groove edge on Law & Order and stay on the arete. Where you get to the upper groove, switch to the steep fin and layback in the other direction to the top. Whereas the bottom arete is more technical, the top fin is more pumpy.
The rope tends to snake along the rock and create a bit more than the average drag near the top. So, some longer draws near the start and transition left, as well as using a slicker (newer) or smaller-diameter rope might help you at the top. Another way to have less rope drag is to do a variation called The Sleepy Sparrow, which goes to the left arete from about the 6th to 7th bolt, then directly up to the upper fin.
* She is such a radical android
2 Comments