5.10c/d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.3 from 12 votes
|Type:||Trad, 138 ft (42 m)|
|Page Views:||595 total · 57/month|
|Shared By:||Jon Nelson on Jul 30, 2022 · Updates|
|Admins:||Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
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An arete climb that switches direction. Longer and more sustained than Spineless, yet with slightly easier moves. The rock is quite grippy, so you might be surprised in spots that you are still on the rock.
Start laybacking the groove edge on Law & Order and stay on the arete. Where you get to the upper groove, switch to the steep fin and layback in the other direction to the top. Whereas the bottom arete is more technical, the top fin is more pumpy.
The rope tends to snake along the rock and create a bit more than the average drag near the top. So, some longer draws near the start and transition left, as well as using a slicker (newer) or smaller-diameter rope might help you at the top. Another way to have less rope drag is to do a variation called The Sleepy Sparrow, which goes to the left arete from about the 6th to 7th bolt, then directly up to the upper fin.
* She is such a radical android
You can start on Law & Order, or on Borealis, just to the left. (Though you should take a few pieces of gear for the latter start.)