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Routes in The Duke Complex
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Bakery Arête T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Get 'er Done S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Glow Stick/Enriched Retro-Bolt S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Let 'er Buck S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Marion Morrison T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Put 'em Up T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Ranch Hands T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Saddle Up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Whiskey Talk S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Yellow Cake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Brad shilling |
| Page Views: | 146 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Deven Lewis on Jul 26, 2022 |
| Admins: | GRK, Eric Bluemn, Mike Engle |
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Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP
Details
(1) The BLM has amended the Cassia Resource Management Plan (RMP) to permanently close the 400 acres of land it manages in the Castle Rocks Interagency Recreation Area to staging, traditional rock climbing, sport climbing and bouldering, as well as overnight camping and development of new trails. Here is a link to a map that shows the BLM land in yellow. parksandrecreation.idaho.go…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
Description
A little gem.
Start up a slightly over hung thin crack using good face holds over bulge.(crux) continue up a slightly flaky crack using face holds and jams . from here the guide books shows going on easy slab to anchor. However you can can continue up to a curving crack roof and enjoy yourself a nice beach whale top out. build a belay here or continue up right to chain anchor on the south side youll rap here
Location
This is on the west side of the duke complex in a shady slot corridor. best way to get here is follow trail for true grit and continue past to the west side of that formation and then head up left of the duke on stack boulders to obvious slot corridor this route starts at the top of the corridor next to a sport route.
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