Type: Trad, 360 ft (109 m), 4 pitches
FA: Trevor Bowman and Zach Harrison 11/24/20
Page Views: 473 total · 20/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Jul 25, 2022
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

On the far right (north) side  of the somewhat jumbled Coconino wall in the upper west fork of Fay Canyon (Oski is on the far left (south) side of this wall), is a blunt prow of excellent milk-chocolate patina. Unlike most prospective lines in this cirque, this prow has a reasonable and attractive start option up a uniquely pocketed wall, which links into the subtle prow which much of the route follows. Tusken Raiders offers face climbing comparable to the lines on the Fay Buttress. 

The route is northeasterly facing, and gets sun until noonish, depending on the time of year. 

P1--Bust an awkward ledge mantle (nice to pre-clip the first bolt if you rap into the route), pull a pocketed bulge onto a slab, a crux second bulge on powerful pockets leads to a final easier crack and belay perch. #.3,#.4, #1--only gear needed. (.11+, 90')

P2--Edge and crimp up the blunt arete with increasingly thinner, harder moves to another good belay shelf. A stellar technical face pitch! Only need the #.5 on this. (.11+, 100')

P3--Crank up arete to a cruxy roof maneuver (with a touch of crusty rock) onto the upper hanging arete. Good belay ledge. Wild position, rad climbing. All bolts. (.11, 80')

P4--Follows the prominent left-facing corner system to the top. A hollow start leads past 2 bolts and up the steep corner with jams/stems. This was scrubbed hard, but still is a bit dirty. (.10, 90')

Rap the route (either before or after climbing depending on approach choice) 4X with 1 60M rope. The rap anchor (with chain) for the 3rd rappel (down the 2nd pitch) is off-route to the climber's right of the belay, on a small shelf. 

Location Suggest change

On the far north end of the west cirque of Fay Canyon (wall with Oski). Can be approached from either above or below, each approach being a solid endeavor of an hour+ with pros and cons to either way. 

From above: Hike Bear Mt. trail almost to the top (a ways past the turn off for Oski). There is a distinct section of slickrock "sidewalk" around a point with white trail markers that precedes your departure from the trail by a couple of hundred feet. Turn off the trail at the trees in the beta picture and descend steeply (hopefully finding cairns) to an exposed scramble along the top of the wall to the top anchors. There is a good spot to leave gear and get ready a bit above the topout, and you may want to belay off of gear to get down to the anchor safely as it is quite exposed! 

This way has the benefit of having 95% of the approach on a trail. However, that trail gains more elevation than the canyon access, and is very exposed to the sun. It will feel pretty brutal if it's hot, but this route can be climbed in cooler temps comfortably, especially with an early start.

From below: Hike the Fay Canyon Trail to its end. Follow a well-traveled social trail along the base of the Schnebly wall into the west fork of the upper canyon; the social trail pretty much ends once a steep gully is met. Ascend this gully, which involves some steep terrain and brush, to a bench and cut out left into a final steep part that leads to the massive, open terrace at the base of the upper Coconino. Traverse this open bench to the route. This traverse involves some route-finding and ups and downs and takes longer than you'd think. 

This approach has less elevation gain, and more shade. It also involves some shwacking, loose steep gully, and attentive navigating. 

Protection Suggest change

In BD sizes:
(1X) .3
(2X) .4-#1
(1X) #2,#3
8 draws, 4 slings
(1X) 60M rope