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Hunter Biden Wuz Here (HIPS)
5.9,
Trad, TR, 38 ft (12 m),
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
FA: FKA
Miles Johnson July 25, 2022 TR, FFA JLO & MJ Aug 19, 22
Oklahoma
> Wichita Mountai…
> Mt Scott
> Juji Fruit
Access Issue: Access is always an issue here.
Details
Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
Description
Hunter Biden Wuz Here winds up the crack facing NW on the outside of HIPS chimney. A fun start leads right to a stance for pro and then committing moves lead to jams and good pro. From there standard crack climbing, satisfying foot jams and a few good hands to the top.
After completing the portion shown in the picture two body lengths uphill you will come to a horizontal crack which takes 0.5 - 0.75 very well for belaying up your follower. Nuts and Ballnuts can be utilized as well where it pinches down.
If you or a mate have sent White Lightning and Red Wine but cannot clean Dreamboat Annie 5.10d give Hunter Biden Wuz Here a few laps - it fills the gap very well and much more complex than the other 3 being more like the Ice Box Crack / Power Series family.
FFA is open for the taking if you want it - otherwise I’ll send it with a group next time I’m here.
Location
Outside south wall of HIPS Chimney.
Protection
BD 0.5-2 / anchor: double 0.5s + one 0.75. Mini J Tree with nuts or ballnuts a few feet south if the three finger pieces aren’t enough for you.
![HIPS chimney and short trad routes are only a 1 minute scramble from Mount Scott road. Park at Juji Fruit / Pullout Game and head north for 1 minute. On your right you'll see HIPS. Fast and fun for some quick trad laps. Easy anchor opportunity & walkoff.]()
[Hide Photo] HIPS chimney and short trad routes are only a 1 minute scramble from Mount Scott road. Park at Juji Fruit / Pullout Game and head north for 1 minute. On your right you'll see HIPS. Fast and fun for…
![HIPS climbs seen from Mt Scott Rd. From here you can see the extra footage on Hunter BIden Wuz Here 5.9 and the yet-to-be climbed lines on the outside west face. Naughty Polaroids 5.10- and Forklift Certified 5.7 are inside the chimney.]()
[Hide Photo] HIPS climbs seen from Mt Scott Rd. From here you can see the extra footage on Hunter BIden Wuz Here 5.9 and the yet-to-be climbed lines on the outside west face. Naughty Polaroids 5.10- and Forklif…
![Lasagna on the Onsight of Hunter Biden Wuz Here. Committing moves on good gear. Topout sections not seen and great views of Hunting Horse Hill and Lawtonka from the belay.]()
[Hide Photo] Lasagna on the Onsight of Hunter Biden Wuz Here. Committing moves on good gear. Topout sections not seen and great views of Hunting Horse Hill and Lawtonka from the belay.
![JLOs interpretation of belay anchor in the horizontal finger crack above Hunter Biden Wuz Here. A combination of 0.5s and 0.75s work well in various slotted placements. Nuts available on south side. Walkoff east to the right and 3rd class down.]()
[Hide Photo] JLOs interpretation of belay anchor in the horizontal finger crack above Hunter Biden Wuz Here. A combination of 0.5s and 0.75s work well in various slotted placements. Nuts available on south side…
![Lozano working up the blocky jugs on his Onsight of Forklift Certified which is just 100' off Mount Scott road]()
[Hide Photo] Lozano working up the blocky jugs on his Onsight of Forklift Certified which is just 100' off Mount Scott road
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