Type: Trad, TR, 38 ft (12 m)
FA: FKA Miles Johnson July 25, 2022 TR, FFA JLO & MJ Aug 19, 22
Page Views: 160 total · 15/month
Shared By: Miles Johnson on Jul 25, 2022
Admins: Ryan Sheldon, Drew Nevius, Kevin Diaz

You & This Route


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Description

Hunter Biden Wuz Here winds up the crack facing NW on the outside of HIPS chimney. A fun start leads right to a stance for pro and then committing moves lead to jams and good pro. From there standard crack climbing, satisfying foot jams and a few good hands to the top.

After completing the portion shown in the picture two body lengths uphill you will come to a horizontal crack which takes 0.5 - 0.75 very well for belaying up your follower. Nuts and Ballnuts can be utilized as well where it pinches down.

If you or a mate have sent White Lightning and Red Wine but cannot clean Dreamboat Annie 5.10d give Hunter Biden Wuz Here a few laps - it fills the gap very well and much more complex than the other 3 being more like the Ice Box Crack / Power Series family.

FFA is open for the taking if you want it - otherwise I’ll send it with a group next time I’m here.

Location

Outside south wall of HIPS Chimney. 

Protection

BD 0.5-2 / anchor: double 0.5s + one 0.75. Mini J Tree with nuts or ballnuts a few feet south if the three finger pieces aren’t enough for you.

Photos

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