Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft (9 m)
FA: Miles Johnson June 25, 2022
Page Views: 126 total · 12/month
Shared By: Miles Johnson on Jul 25, 2022
Admins: Ryan Sheldon, Drew Nevius, Kevin Diaz

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

In the HIPS Chimney climb the slightly overhung line on cams and nuts just off the back wall that looks like a broken staircase - only use the slightly overhung wall, not the back slab wall or broken staircase. Great gymnastic moves on just enough good and decent holds with an urgency to keep moving. A combination of incuts, crack tech, and some power requirement really come together for a unique route that goes on gear! Short approach and a good grade addition for Mt Scott.

Stay off the back slab wall for the clean send but use it if necessary to prevent a deck if you’re between protection!

Bombay HIPS is the 5.4 using the back wall, chimney style.

Ran multiple laps on it to suss out variation and Naughty Polaroids felt much like Smashing Hornets and other 10s, but shorter although slightly overhung. Please let me know what you think! Could definitely be bouldered with the chimney escape but since it takes solid gear when you need it I listed it as a Trad Line, so climbers can flesh out their progressions. Anchors are minimal but straightforward and good location too for fun Leader/Follow without fuss.

Hidden In Plain Sight and a lot of fun - so nice you gotta do it twice. I subtracted one star from the rating since the back wall is Off - if this slightly overhung line with movement like this that went on good gear was sitting in the open it would be a miniature classic. 

Location

1 minute walk north of Juji Fruit / Pullout Game Parking . Walk north along the road and look right - you will see the obvious chimney at the top of the hillside. A short way scramble and you will be inside HIPS.

Protection

BD 0.5/0.75/1/2 or totem equivalent / anchor: BD123

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