5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1300 ft (394 m), 14 pitches|
|FA:||1988, Remy Brothers. Refurbished & cleaned in 2018.|
|Page Views:||76 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||Tom V on Jul 25, 2022|
|Admins:||Dan Flynn, Mark P.|
You & This Route
Your To-Do List:Add To-Do ·
Your Difficulty Rating:
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
World class mixed trad & sport route. Lots of great jamming, laybacking, and stemming. The crux 6b+ pitch is completely sport bolted, but cams can supplement the bolts. Newly cleaned & refurbished in 2018.
Pitch 1 (5c): The first pitch follows an inclined crack dihedral and is a good warm-up pitch. Pitch 2 (6a+): A great crack dihedral, can be a bit damp.
Pitch 3 (6a+): After an interesting but easy start, beautiful crack climbing follows. Traverse out an undercling and out through a notch in the roof to the belay.
Pitch 4 (6a): Continue up the corner to a grassy ledge belay
Pitch 5 (5a): This is a transition pitch. Simple slabs are interrupted by short grass ledges. Bolted to show the way.
Pitch 6 (3a): A short traverse to the left across the couloir leads to the belay at the start of the obvious arcing corner.
Pitch 7 (6b): This is the prime cut of the route. An awesome 50m corner with jamming, stemming, and laybacking.
Pitch 8 (6a): Loop pitch. Climb 5m down the flake from the belay, step across to the left, and then up the flakes and cracks. Splitting the double ropes here is recommended.
Pitch 9 (6a): After a short technical left traverse, there is another beautiful corner to climb.
Pitch 10 (6b): Start up the corner then trend right onto the slab (well bolted), and finish left on an uncomfortable belay.
Pitch 11 (6b+): The crux of the route first leads up thin flakes to a nice undercling crack under the roof. Smearing your feet, pull hard on the thin flakes (surprisingly solid) and exit to the left. Continue up the corner and exit left after the last bolt. It is easier to climb until your feet are just below the last bolt, where there is a depression for a foot hold and a hidden thin hand jam around the corner. This makes the exit easier and leads you exactly to the belay.
Pitch 12 (6a+): Climb a nice (somewhat flaring) finger crack. We ignored the Villiger belay to the right and built a makeshift anchor from two bolts of the Villiger traverse (see photo).
Pitch 13 (6a): From the crossover with the Villiger, go straight up following the crack to the joint belay on a great grass belay ledge at the base of a corner.
Pitch 14a (6b+): The last pitch is steep and sporty, but with good grip up to the edge. After the crux around the edge, easier terrain follows up to the summit book on the twin tower.
Pitch 14b (6b): We continued up the last pitch of the Villiger to the right, which is a superb layback and jamming corner (thin at times) with decent foot smears. Seemed the more classic way to finish the climb compared to the original final bouldery pitch.
Descent: Rappel the entire route from the Jimmy belay station around the corner from where the Villiger corner finishes. Important to note that as of July 2022 the first rappel station at the summit is only 1 bolt since the other hanger is loose and hanging in the air. We backed this up by threading the rope through an old ring bolt nearby. Rappel to the Villiger belay station that you ignored on Pitch 12.
Starts just to the left of Clog and Stock (blue bolts) at the base of a triangular slab with cracks on either side. You can climb the first pitch by climbing either of the two cracks up the triangular slab.